Marcelo Burlon was upbeat Saturday as he geared up for a big bash later that night — replete with a five-hour DJ set. He has many things to celebrate, including the new spring collection, a Levi’s collaboration dropping this week and the opening of his brand’s first Milan store just around the corner from tony Via Montenapoleone a few weeks earlier.
“We have so many stores in far-flung destinations like Macau, and now having our home here, just feels good and right,” he said. “I could never imagine that one day I’d be calling downtown [my brand’s] home. I’ve always lived and hung out elsewhere,” he added.
In his spring collection a few — based on demand, he said — tailored pieces for the skate-loving generation — no pant pleats and no structured shoulders — mingled with gorpcore utilitarian pieces, such as thick washed cotton canvas vests and cargo pants, as well as knits in rainbow-colored patchwork.
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Skimming through look book images on his phone to show the lineup, he said he was inspired by water as a nod to the brand’s signature blue but also as the natural element that represents rebirth and purification.
Splitting his time between Patagonia, Ibiza and Milan — the latter less and less frequently — the designer has found his sweet spiritual spot, he said. References to the former two echoed in the psychedelic maze-like graphics on suits, some with shawl collars, and the ikat patterns that have become a signature for the designer as much as his bestselling feather T-shirts.