“It’s just about clashes — it’s the same old story,” Haider Ackermann shrugged backstage after his fall show. The designer was referring to the contrast between the collection’s military influences and its more glam-rock elements.
Yet something about the combination of the extravagantly opulent setting (the gilded reception rooms of Paris City Hall) and the aggressive styling (hair was gelled into collapsed teddy boy quiffs) telegraphed a sharper edge to his signature dandy rocker look.
Metallic fabrics abounded, from the bronze or silver moiré of Fifties-style drape jackets to the gold thread running through maxi coats in superlight tweed. But the overall look was streamlined, with less of the draping and layering he is known for.
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Even the most mesmerizing fabric — a hypnotically deep blue crushed velvet — was played fairly straight on items including a suit that paired a roomy blazer with stovepipe pants. “On a very pale person, it’s very beautiful,” said Ackermann, proving his knack for Gothic glamour remains intact.
“The aggression was more in the attitude, but I think for the rest, the clothes are consistent,” he continued. No doubt, the designer continues to raise the bar on embellishment, but these flamboyant creations didn’t need further amping-up.