No trees were sacrificed in the making of Ermenegildo Zegna’s fall show, staged amidst majestic forest greenery. They’re all heading to Oasis Zegna, a company-funded reserve in the Biella Alps, Stefano Pilati assured backstage.
The mammoth set, complete with mountains of dirt and birdcalls, was a spectacular way to accentuate the eco slant to this handsome collection, Pilati’s strongest outing yet since signing on as Zegna’s creative director in 2013. The designer accentuated natural fabrics and experimented with recycled fabrics and yarns, incorporating repurposed plastic into robust archival Harris Tweeds. “It gives a new life,” Pilati said, pointing to a roomy tweed overcoat, glistening like moss carpeted in morning dew.
A raft of roomy, tailored coats in camouflage colors and outdoorsy textures opened the show, while tapered pants cinched at the ankle with elastics accentuated the volume above the waist. Checkered flannel suits, roomy cargo trousers and helmet-hard tweed caps heightened the Field & Stream mood.
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The show became dressier as it progressed with plush velvet jackets and matching corduroy pants yielding to city-slicker coats in dark, lustrous fabrics streaked with gleaming leather and military hardware. While the collection got too tricky at times, tab-collared tailoring and utility pockets are among Pilati’s more interesting ideas. Add him to the list of fashion’s eco leaders.