Opening the Berliner Mode Salon, Antonia Goy’s collection, dubbed Alien-Nation, made a pitch for a diversity that includes both peaceful coexistence and willful juxtaposition. It was the first solo runway show here for the design duo Antonia Goy and Björn Kubeja, although the brand has been on the scene since 2006.
The show notes cited today’s global unease, yet much of the collection telegraphed an aesthetic of the early Eighties — another time of upsurge, tumult and revolution — with strong shoulders, high waists, pie crust collars and tight shapes. Antonia Goy’s forms are, however, mutable. Zippers relax or cinch trousers and jackets, sleeves are removable. Hybrids and asymmetry dominated, with viscose jersey and wool paired with striped cotton, or slithery leatherette, which also was coaxed into glam leggings, tops and dresses. Cozy comforting coats and jackets had pops of contrast plaid, while paint-splatter camouflage and custom flower prints added a tough femininity. The strongest looks were trouser shapes, including fuchsia wool pants that matched a superhigh waist with an ultralong length to create something wholly contemporary.