Yigal Azrouël’s gorgeous, decadent fall collection was a study in contrasts: light and darkness, innocence and impurity. The theme was personal to Azrouël: “I have a dark side in me, but the light is always there no matter what,” he said, a sentiment underscored by the lineup’s black rose motif, a symbol of beauty in darkness. “I wasn’t just thinking about beautiful clothes, but also about personality. There are a lot of beautiful clothes out there — and she has to wear something that is much more thoughtful.”
Azrouël achieved that feeling of depth via impressive textile manipulation seen throughout his offering, which featured rich brocades and paisley jacquards, burnout velvets and embroidered lace. Case in point: the series of leather bomber jackets accented with patchwork color-blocked mink that opened the show, juxtaposing hard and soft elements.
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Dress silhouettes ranged from prim — many with high necks and long bell sleeves — to sensual, some featuring exposed shoulders, tiered ruffles, transparency and slits. All of it signaled to a woman complex in her femininity, just as Azrouël intended.