A full 10 years since the label last showed at Tokyo Fashion Week, and 25 years since it was founded, 5351 Pour Les Hommes et Les Femmes chose an expansive gallery space in the city’s warehouse district for its fall runway presentation. Models crisscrossed over a raw concrete floor in a collection done almost entirely in black and white — with a few pops of red in jacquard or checked suits, moto jackets and socks that showed under the hems of ankle-pants — and featuring eye-catching details like beading, tiny rhinestones and metallic fibers woven into the textiles.
Men’s wear designer Kazuhisa Komura showed dandy tailored suits, bow ties, cummerbunds, wide-brimmed hats and cap-toe shoes. These were interspersed with leather jackets and slim pants, opulent fur stoles and checked coats.
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The women’s offering by Rei Takahashi mirrored much of the men’s collection, but with a bit less personality. Versions of the men’s leather pieces were paired with sheer chiffon skirts and long cardigans. Ponchos also appeared in various forms, from patterned and fringed knits to toggle-fastened wool capes.