For fall, Lutz Huelle focused on volume that was easy to wear. What looked like a giant poncho slung over the model’s shoulders, for instance, was in fact a coat whose slip-on sleeves were sewn inside the ample garment, allowing the pretty folds along the front to stay intact while the wearer moved. There were also sheepskin bombers that were deliberately left untrimmed, their raw cuts juxtaposed against a more luxurious fabric, and spray-painted gold — an idea Huelle got from painting his new apartment, he divulged backstage.
It would have been more fun had he reserved the technique for a few special pieces instead of letting his spray can run wild, as the gold and silver reappeared on pencil skirts, tops and even leggings. Overall, the collection was stronger on top, since asymmetrically draped skirts and three-quarter pants gave the season a dated look.