Fausto Puglisi made up for the limited ingredients on his fall menu for Emanuel Ungaro — black, white, spots and pleats — by serving them in more ways than you could keep track of. Tuxedos with high-waist, wide-leg trousers and long overcoats represented the relatively understated end of the spectrum, which swung to the dizzyingly dotty, as in a jacket with black-and-white fur puffs over a polka-dot blouse and pencil skirt worn with a beret that looked hole-punched with the dots migrating to the netted veil attached to it.
Puglisi is prone to overstatement, and it seems like he’s learning that a little goes a long way. He may have milked his themes, but his experimentation did yield several inventive yet restrained results, among them accordion pleats fanned on the diagonal into precise panels on fitted dresses and skirts and a white wrap coat with furry black dots.