The shoes and booties with their crushed-can heels, gleaming in copper or cloaked in masking tape, were the best things in the Acne Studios fall show. The rest was too arty even for the Centre Pompidou, where the show took place in a fishbowl runway theater, crowds of young people pressed against the glass.
What happened to this contemporary brand’s effortless and enviable Scandi-cool, its sleek tailoring and quirky yet approachable casual wear? Creative director Jonny Johansson got bogged down sculpting heavy blanket wools into Whipstitched hourglass coats nearly as stiff as a Joseph Beuys sculpture, sheer knits and asymmetrical leather skirts patched with raffia.
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Fashion professionals might be able to project how such ideas could translate in the showroom and on the retail floor. But what about all those kids out there in the dark?