After last season’s flirtation with spare, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have re-upped the ante, piling on layers and references as suits their girl’s fancy and their commercial philosophy.
Backstage, Wainwright noted the “cool tenets” on which the line is based, running off a list — English tailoring, military touches, sport, New York grit. “It all fits who the Rag & Bone girl is,” he said.
This season she’s adding a side of pretty via lingerie worn in offbeat ways with a proverbial shot of streetwise irony. This girl doesn’t play a Lolita card; she dons her unmentionables — shiny, lace-trimmed camis; full and half-slips — over long-sleeve white Ts and wool pants and under any number of the impressive outerwear pieces that are key to her aesthetic and to the Rag & Bone business. These included a brass-button peacoat in classic camel hair, slick vinyls bonded to wool, and every imaginable take on the puffer. The show also included boyish references (buttoned-up shirts, a quite chic suit), building up to an all-black finish Wainwright called “quintessentially New York, tough, street.”
The designer said he and Neville are elevating “who we are and the idea of who our girl is.” But the collection remains a trove of smart, well-designed wardrobe-building pieces with a cool factor, cleverly styled for the runway to appealing effect. What needs elevating?
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