Jason Wu typically develops his collection from carefully considered watchwords. The words for fall: strength and seduction. The idea, Wu said backstage, was to present “this superstrong woman, really glamorous, seductive,” while at the same time working the notion of multipurpose clothes, particularly outerwear. The result was a strong lineup that made good on the two-word premise and on the concept of pragmatic versatility.
Intentionally or otherwise, Wu has assumed the mantle of smart American sportswear. He seems influenced particularly by Calvin Klein, and smartly so, referencing Klein’s clean, cool Nineties silhouettes. For fall, Wu took the reference and funneled it through his fresh, modernist eye. The base of the collection was a waist-conscious silhouette with a relaxed, midcalf skirt or ankle-length trousers. These projected confident, everyday glamour, taking on heightened swagger when Wu tossed a fox stole over one shoulder, securing it at the waist. The beauty was twofold: The detachable flourishes changed the look dramatically while avoiding the tricked-out vibe that can accompany convertible pieces.
The return of real winter hasn’t been lost on designers, Wu included. His outerwear centered on dual-purposing. Several coats and jackets were actually two pieces — fabric jacket over voluptuous fur vest or vice versa — allowing the wearer three distinct options as the weather and her moods change. They looked great. “When you invest in a piece you really want it to be multifunctional,” Wu said. Chic investment dressing. What better way to beat the chill?