There’s even more buzz than usual around Charles Harbison, who’s just off his FGI Rising Star nomination last month. Now in his fourth season, the designer continues to polish and push his unique point of view. Part of that perspective comes from his approach to gender-neutral dressing. “People are now depicting their gender on their own terms,” he said backstage. “Where embellishment was for women and uniformity for men, there’s been a transformation, where men are opting into humor and women for tailoring.” To drive that point home, Harbison showed some of his women’s looks — especially those that veered sporty, such as a full-length hoodie and a snap-button bomber, both in gray fleece — on male models.
Also a source of inspiration this season (in addition to his continued fascination with Brice Marden and Alexander Calder) was model Beverly Johnson, who he said “embodies the ethos of ease and has the courage and power of women that I relate to.” With that in mind, Harbison showed skirts in full circle shapes done in color blocks of men’s suiting fabrics, paired with tailored cotton tops with tails. Most covetable were the gray cashmere sweaters and full skirts, both adorned with fox fur and sequin appliqués. While some of the art references were too literal, especially the sequined Daliesque face patches, the bravado with which Harbison embraced them was a sight to see.