Luisa Spagnoli’s women are rooted in reality and choose their wardrobes accordingly. The company was founded in 1928 and, before the rebranding efforts of recent years, its offerings were something of a commodity, with nicely made everyday gear for women’s practical needs.
But since its first runway show at Milan Fashion Week in 2018, the brand has skewed younger, not just to make its catwalks more current but to lure a new audience in its many stores. (It currently counts a little less than 200 flagships spread between Italy and abroad.)
Like a bridge between its legacy business and its new ambitions, the brand’s fall 2025 collection straddled between young and fresh girls and ladylike grown-ups, with often an interplay between the two facets.
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Backstage, Nicoletta Spagnoli said she wanted to capture an attitude of contemporary femininity and freedom, and make sure her clients are feeling empowered by what they wear.
The leggy looks with ruffled knit miniskirts and dresses barely peaking from under bulky Donegal and herringbone bomber jackets shaped in the vein of ‘80s leather numbers and the maxi-gingham flannel suits read Gen Z cool. Less so the evening wear range, which seemed outdated, including the billowing see-through frocks with a train and short fronts with ruffled hems and cuffs.
Seekers of the ladylike look were covered, too, with pencil-skirted suits in mannish fabrics or croco-embossed leather, the latter reading unabashed boss businesswoman. Fuzzy camel or flannel coats and high-waisted flared pants hit a sophisticated note even when done in offbeat colors like pea green.
No matter their age, this collection should appeal to women who have a casual, no-fuss relationship with fashion — those who just want to look good in clothes.