After staging online shows in iconic locations in Tokyo, real or replicated, Chitose Abe was finally back in Paris this season to unveil her fall collection for Sacai with a physical runway display. And speaking of grandiose backdrops, the reception rooms at Paris City Hall are not too shabby.
With its soaring gilded arches and crystal chandeliers, the space set the tone for a collection that drew on haute couture tropes, with sculptural silhouettes that emphasized the bust and hips. Abe is known for her skillful hybrid constructions melding workwear staples like aviator jackets and parkas. Who knew that outerwear could also be made to look seductive?
A case in point: a sculptural red satin zipped coat with a bra top looped through the bust, or a long Empire-waisted orange shearling waistcoat. Exaggerated volumes evoked historical costume. A trenchcoat came with a bustle back, while oversize down jackets had an extra layer that created the illusion of a below-the-shoulder pouf dress.
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Men’s suits were taken apart and reworked, with jackets sawn in half and belted over crisp white cotton shirts, and pants refashioned as bustier tops. In a nod to the Surrealist movement that is gaining growing traction on the Paris catwalks, a trenchcoat appeared wrapped in a fur blanket.
Abe offered plenty of sporty options, too, from chunky ribbed cardigans and fisherman sweaters with lingerie-inspired accents, to cool cropped shearling jackets worn with pants that split open to make a flowing skirt. A silver sequined, flapper style dress slung over wide-legged pants combined the best of both worlds, and felt in tune with the Cartier collaboration that was unveiled on the runway.
The designer said she wanted to celebrate “love, fidelity and friendship — values that have always been at the heart of Sacai, and that are more important today than ever in our world.” Despite the pandemic, her love affair with Paris continues unabated. Clearly, it’s a marriage that works.