Todd Snyder is still showcasing his ongoing love affair with American fashion. But while his latest collection is chock-full of classic silhouettes and fabrics, it’s not his grandfather’s wardrobe.
The designer’s fall offering is entitled New Americans and reimagines American tailoring, workwear, military and sartorial references. Think double-breasted suits in slouchy silhouettes in Donegal tweeds, velvets and corduroy paired with oversize hoodies and cardigans that a grandpa could relate to — but one circa 2022.
“Being an American designer, I’m influenced by American style,” Snyder said, “but I wanted to do something new.” He pored through thrift stores for pieces that spoke to him with their texture, fabric, proportion and silhouette that later inspired the fall line.
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Most of the pieces in the collection are oversize and “a little more slouchy,” he said, pointing to a double-breasted corduroy suit and a schoolboy sweater that falls below the waist. Many of the fabrics look heavy but are actually soft and light such as a cashmere sweater with cable details.
Outerwear is key and Snyder offers up everything from a long “wet nylon” puffer coat to shearling chore coats, a double-breasted velvet topcoat and a rugged oversize Balmacaan black leather coat that he characterized as “gutsy.” A vintage blanket that he found was used as the starting point for a colorful top coat and he also offered up an oversize trench in a water-repellent ventile fabric.
The designer didn’t move too far from his roots by offering up rigid versions of colored denim stovepipe pants, ’90s-inspired lumberjack overshirts that he gave a luxe treatment by creating them from nubby Casentino wools and military-style pants.
“We also reintroduced suiting,” he said, but the silhouette is looser overall with jackets that are more reminiscent of sweaters. Among his suit options is a stretch denim model made from cotton/cashmere.
The designer was perhaps most excited about the colorful mohair and reverse Fair Isle sweaters that provide some pop to the collection.
And what would a Todd Snyder collection be without another collaboration? This time, he partnered with Trickers of Northampton, England, for a sartorial take on the traditional motorcycle boot. Like many of the clothing pieces, the boots look heavy with their supersize lug soles, but they’re actually light.
Overall, Snyder described the fall collection as “rebellious with grungier elements done in a sophisticated way.”