Eclectic Glamour. That’s what Donna Karan dubbed her DKNY collection for fall 2008. She offered luxurious leathers, shearlings and chunky knits layered over bow blouses and brocade skirts and, in a continuation of spring’s nod to the Seventies, bits of fringe and paisley that, coupled with short dresses with lots of volume, kept things current and cool.
Diane von Furstenberg may be famous for her effortless dresses, but there’s more to her repertoire than fab frocks. And she proved it with the stylish fall collection she showed on Sunday, which centered on a vagabond heroine in polished, Marlene Dietrich-influenced looks. Here, a combination of the sporty and the feminine: a twinset belted over soft layers of chiffon.
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Feminine with a hint of retro — that’s what triumphed on the fall runways, with smart blazers, full skirts and some drop-dead dresses.
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Diane von Furstenberg: “She always knew she would find her way through the raindrops.” So Diane von Furstenberg mused in her program notes of this season’s heroine, a mysterious sort whose travels take her from Berlin to New York by way of Shanghai with a Forties attitude and plenty of style.
Of course, the real heroine of any von Furstenberg saga is DVF herself, whose innate survival instinct has always informed her when it’s time to adjust course. Having carved out a well-known place for herself as the go-to goddess of modern, sexy dresses, von Furstenberg typically celebrates that angle on her runway, as was the case with last season’s oh-so-tropical romp. Yet life, as they say, is not always a beach, and so, for fall, she made it very clear that she’s got those more serious moments covered, too.
As for her vagabond femme fatale, this woman revels in a Dietrich fixation with a strong, polished aura that starts with a coat or jacket, or both, belted over layers beneath. This allowed von Furstenberg the chance to flaunt her way with sportswear, and to show off those delightful girly dresses in a different context. The former was strong on terrific sweaters and Marlene-worthy languid trousers; the latter bore a bit of “Atonement” romance, although a frothed-up dress under a graphic jacquard jacket looked more indulgently Sally Bowles.
Evening went two ways. There were moments of Asian-inspired grandeur in curvaceous gowns, such as one with an exotic vine print. But elegance gave way to sauce in flapper-esque dresses worked with sequins and beads, just right for the girl who wants to shimmy till dawn.
DKNY: Capturing the spirit of modern young women, Donna Karan called this collection “Eclectic Glamour” and offered luxurious leathers, shearlings and chunky knits layered over bow blouses and brocade skirts that were demonstrative of the casual throw-it-on style her customers have come to know and love. She continued spring’s nod to the Seventies with bits of fringe and paisley that, coupled with short dresses with lots of volume, kept things current and cool.
Adam Adam Lippes: After last season’s spirited sportif, Adam Lippes showed a more muted side to his typically upbeat basics. A wintery forest backdrop suggested a nature motif that Lippes worked into rugged outdoorsy styles, like a fur-trimmed parka and top-notch cozy knits — a heathered devoré sweaterdress was a standout. Then he switched gears with ladylike dresses, some featuring an eagle print. There was no shortage of wardrobe staples; the tailored jackets and wide-legged trousers would work in any closet. But between the blue-gray palette and the reliability of it all, things felt a little flat. The collection could have used a cohesive message, not to mention a boost of Lippes’ quirky charm.
Nicole Miller: Nicole Miller’s urban warrior motif was undetectable, save for show notes that declared “brave women; powerful women. A modern day Joan of Arc” as the inspiration. Granted, her boxy, color-blocked tunics and stirrup pants channeled an Eighties power silhouette, and the metallics and lamés — in pleated tunics and evening wear — hinted at armor. The collection also had some crowd-pleasing separates, mainly in terms of the simpler cocktail dresses and outerwear, such as a leather jacket with three-quarter-length sleeves. The ethnic prints, striped taffetas and spacey jumpsuits, however, made little sense in the same lineup.
Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese can practically do glamorous cocktail dresses with her hands tied behind her back, but this time around, her penchant for retro felt dated, from the released-pleat skirts (there were too many) to the velvet toppers in curious colors such as coral and bright green. Nevertheless, Reese fans will probably appreciate the abstract prints and sequined knits that she consistently delivers with her oh-so-feminine wit.