In the three months Matthew Williamson spent in Florence designing his first Emilio Pucci collection, it should come as no surprise that he extensively mined the legendary house’s archives.
But his first effort for the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Pucci, which bows Tuesday, won’t be stuck in a time warp.
“The archives are amazing and overwhelming, but I came to the conclusion that I didn’t want to rehash what Emilio [Pucci] had done so well,” said Williamson in a phone interview from London. “I wanted the collection to be young and groovy with a European sensibility.”
While he obviously tapped into Pucci’s heritage, Williamson didn’t anchor the collection on prints, but peppered the house’s graphic specialty throughout. “It’s not only about prints because I also want to attract a customer who wants a pair of plain pants.”
So he revised a Sixties motif called Cupola because it’s “one of the lesser-known prints and one of the more symmetrical ones.”
Williamson also infused a certain dose of sexiness in the clothes but shunned the conventional less-is-more take.
London-based Williamson, 34, who is known for colorful prints, a bohemian vibe and a celebrity following, succeeds Christian Lacroix, who had signed on in April 2002. Under the French designer’s guidance, Pucci’s sales quadrupled and stores ballooned to 29 units. (LVMH does not break out sales for its individual houses, but industry estimates put Pucci’s current volume around $65 million.)
Yet Williamson said he didn’t feel his predecessor’s pressure too much.
“This is a dream come true for me because I’ve always been a Pucci fan,” said Williamson. “I’m passionate and well-versed when it comes to prints. I understand the technicalities because they are, after all, the cornerstone of my line.”
In terms of shapes, Williamson drew from Florence’s college and university scene, where looking good is just as important as earning good grades.
“The silhouettes are neat and trim, with Peter Pan collars, pouf sleeves, waist emphasis, fur trims and lots of tailored looks,” said Williamson. And it’s all served up in a neutral palette of caramel black and pearl gray with bright spots of deep purple, berry red and fuchsia.