The “celebrity as designer” is alive and well in the contemporary/junior sportswear arena. But as celebrity lines become ubiquitous, even the stars are realizing it’s no longer about simply slapping their names on products. They actually have to take a role in the design.
The hazards of not doing so are becoming apparent. For example, when Fetish launched in 2003 with the Innovo Group Inc., performer Eve wasn’t happy with the results. “It wasn’t a true reflection of Eve’s personal style,” said Julie Wilcher, senior vice president of Fetish and Eve’s mother. “She was rarely seen in any of the pieces produced in the collection.”
In May, Eve switched gears and signed a licensing agreement with Marc Ecko of the $350 million Marc Ecko Enterprises. A relaunch is slated for fall 2005. The refurbished line will include more dressed-up pieces like pinstripe denim suits and an outerwear collection that includes leather.
Wilcher characterized the collection as junior with contemporary influences. “There are some things that are really basic, like Ts, but then there are things that are more sophisticated. It’s for girls as young as 13 but can reach a woman who’s 30 years old.”
The current design team is a mix of designers who launched the line, along with Chinyere Ugoji, creative director, and Giovanni Ravelo, head designer, both formerly of Rocawear.
“Eve gives direction and they execute based on her direction,” Wilcher said.
For 2005, the brand will focus on expanding its international appeal by entering markets in Japan, Italy and Germany. While there are no plans for a freestanding store, Wilcher admits it’s always a possibility. “That’s definitely of interest to Eve,” she said.
Jennifer Lopez’s women’s collection, JLo by Jennifer Lopez, is increasing its glam factor next year — and the star is taking a more hands-on role.
“We’re taking our whole quality up,” said Andy Hilfiger, co-founder and director of Sweetface Fashion Co., the masterbrand for JLo. “We’re still building our design team, but we’re making everything more luxurious and upscale. We’re doing sexy, innovative designs that Jennifer has designed.”
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Hilfiger believes the more expensive products are the ones that sell best for
JLo. “Our customer likes luxury,” he said. “Our $200 watches and $150 jackets are selling very well.”
The line, like Lopez, has evolved over the years. “In the beginning, we were a bit more hip-hop,” Hilfiger said. “But now, it’s just fashion chic. It’s urban, but it’s sexy.”
JLo will also be launching a footwear collection in March. “Now JLo really represents Jennifer’s look from head to toe,” he said. The company already has swimwear, accessories, lingerie and three fragrances.
For 2005, Hilfiger said there will be a huge focus on JLo’s international growth. Currently, there is one freestanding store in Moscow. “We have 40 percent sell-throughs every week in Moscow,” he said. Hilfiger said they are considering opening more stores in Eastern Europe.
Actress and singer Mandy Moore launched her T-shirt line Mblem for spring 2004 and has seen great response from buyers nationwide.
“We’ll be in 500 boutiques in spring,” said Kristi Kaylor, president of 2 Love, the parent company of Mblem. Kaylor said she would like to add better department stores to the mix eventually.
“We’re going to expand the collection for fall 2005 to include sweatsuits, jackets and hoodies,” she said.
Vintage, brightly colored Ts are at the core of Mblem. “Mandy picks all the colors and approves all the designs,” Kaylor said. “All the bodies are fashion-driven in a really soft shirt fabric.” The wholesale price range of the Ts is between $24 and $28.
“Ts are such a good business but really, this truly is Mandy’s vision,” Kaylor said.
“This is a very important time for celebrities,” said Andrew Kirpalani, chairman of JS Brand Management, a newly formed company to develop, market and distribute various categories under the Jessica Simpson and Sweet Kisses brand names.
“They’re on the cover of every magazine and it’s really coming on strong,” he said.
Simpson’s juniors’ collection is slated to launch for back-to-school 2005. “Hopefully, we’ll be in retail stores around June or July,” Kirpalani said.
The line will target her core demographic, girls aged 13 through 24. “Jessica is the kind of girl that relates to the masses,” Kirpalani said. “She can take a pair of $30 jeans and while she’ll pair them with Louis Vuitton shoes, she mixes things nicely.”
Jeans in the Sweet Kisses by Jessica Simpson collection will retail in the range of $39 to $60, while jackets will retail for $40 to $60. “There’s a whole team of designers who are currently working on the collection,” he said. “Jessica will approve everything.”
The line will launch in department stores but eventually expand to specialty boutiques. “The line will be priced in the moderate price range,” Kirpalani said. “It won’t be very expensive — Jessica will make sure of it.”