NEW YORK — Patterns and textures for spring 1995 are unmistakably subtle, yet remain clearly defined in a season that calls for fluidity, refinement and gentle shape.
High-twist yarns rev up the lightweight weaves with bouclette, nubbed or fine thick-and-thin yarns. And mixes also make the grade: Lightweight cotton blended with an even lighter rayon yarn; worsted wool combined with microfiber nylon, and silk joined with nylon are some of the pairings for the new surfaces. As a result, it’s a season that features sometimes airy, sometimes tightly constructed fancy plaids, tick weaves, honeycomb tweeds, basketweaves and striped voiles with a dry or crepe hand. The favored palette: creamy whites; neutrals, especially those with pastel casts; browns; grays, and black played against white.
Crinkle and pleated effects make their mark, rippling across antique floral satin prints, drapey diagonally striped rayon/acetate blends, dobby plaids and knits.
Linen and linen blends maintain their strengths, with the newest looks appearing in box checks, knit ribs and stripes, lenos and crepe novelties. The freshest colors are tinted pastels — like peach or blued gray.
Print makers are also on a textural track, putting batik, dry-brush and wood grain effects on the grounds of their fall-holiday prints. These create dramatic contrasts in patchworks, paisleys, Kilim rugs and florals. Foulard patterns turn up in a number of these designs.