NEW YORK — Designers Harriet Selwyn and Peter Cohen couldn’t be much less alike in terms of personality. She’s outgoing and a ham in front of a camera; he’s bashful and tends to stay in the background. But when it comes to design sensibility, these two are a matched set.
They’re so compatible, in fact, that many of the 175 or so specialty stores that carry Selwyn and Cohen’s designer sportswear collections buy and merchandise them together. Both lines are represented by Jill Bredel.
During an appearance at Barneys New York on Madison Avenue last week, the contrasts between the two — who’ve been friends for 12 years — were apparent: The South African-born Cohen refrains from giving advice to women about what they should wear and is sometimes at a loss for words when speaking about his work. His name doesn’t even appear on his label — a small gold star appears there instead.
Selwyn, on the other hand, approaches customers freely, lets them know she’s the designer of the merchandise they’re looking at and offers to answer any questions. “Harriet’s very good at giving advice and information,” said Cohen.
“But they think you’re cuter,” Selwyn countered.
Selwyn and Cohen, whose companies are based in Los Angeles, have been in business just more than a decade. Four years ago, Cohen approached Bredel, a sales rep in New York he’d then known for five years, about representing him worldwide. “I told Peter I’d love to do something,” said Bredel, who had been on hiatus from the industry when Cohen called. “But I also told him I’d want to do something with Harriet as well.” Bredel and Selwyn had then known each other for six years.
The threesome opened up shop at 137 Fifth Ave., between East 20th and 21st Streets, in the summer of 1990. Since then, Selwyn and Cohen’s business has tripled, said Bredel, with an account roster than includes Barneys, I. Magnin, Neiman Marcus, Betsey Bunky Nini, Joyce of Hong Kong and Victoire, in Paris. Wholesale volume for both firms combined is around $5 million.
The two designers do not confer with each other when they’re creating their collections, said Bredel, who attributes the similarities in the collections to “a similar esthetic.” That includes certain beliefs about what clothing should be: Subtle and understated to let the wearer show off her own style and individuality. Seasonless. Versatile. And above all, comfortable.
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At Barneys, Cohen’s offerings are $530 for a linen and viscose jacket and $320 for wide-leg, georgette-lined linen and viscose pants; $290 for a long, pleated silk skirt that reverses to satin, and $210 for a sleeveless silk blouse.
“If I make something one season and the next season it looks of a certain time, I regret having made it,” said Cohen of his design philosophy. “If I can make something that can endure, that’s when I’m happiest.”
A case in point is the first blouse he designed. It comes with or without sleeves and is collarless with a V-neck that folds back to reveal satin facing. It remains his best-selling piece. “I think my clothes sell because they are familiar,” noted Selwyn. “Our clothes are not necessarily hanger clothes, but there is something to them. It’s real American sportswear.”
Selwyn’s collection at Barneys is priced at $360 for loose rayon matte jersey drawstring pants, $350 for a button-front matte jersey blouse with chiffon edges, $465 for silk-lined linen drawstring pants, $350 for a linen tunic, $210 for crinkle polyester tops, $260 for a linen tank dress and $340 for a linen jacket.
“Their clothes are easy, understated, fluid and modern,” said Bonnie Pressman, Barneys senior vice president and general merchandise manager for women’s apparel. “They sort of fit everyone. There’s been an emphasis on matte jersey, but they’re moving beyond that into more fabrications. The customers who have been buying the matte jersey can add onto those layers. Both collections also work well for eveningwear or special occasion.”
Joseph Cicio, chairman and chief executive officer of I. Magnin, said he thinks Selwyn and Cohen “complement each other beautifully.”
“I respect her very much,” he continued. “She’s an outstanding merchant, and he’s divine. Their collections are for a woman who wants fashion, and is a little on the edge. It’s investment dressing because she can just add onto the clothes she already owns.” “There’s a consistency to their collections,” said Linda Mitchell, owner of Betsey Bunky Nini, on Lexington Avenue in Manhattan. “If you have a piece of either of theirs from five years ago, you can easily expand your wardrobe by just adding some new pieces and wearing them together. The fit is easy on a variety of body types and the fabrics are luxurious.”
To maintain momentum, Bredel would like to build distribution at offshore accounts. She is researching trade fairs in Paris, perhaps to show the collections there next spring. “We want to do abroad what we do here,” she said, “deal with the stores who do the best sportswear and who recognize the usefulness of the clothes.”