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LOS ANGELES — Handicapping who will wear what on the red carpet at the 79th annual Academy Awards on Sunday is like trying to predict a Triple Crown winner.
Designers, jewelers and accessories and beauty companies want to reap the benefits of the publicity bonanza they get if they adorn an A-list actress.
Amid the lobbying, jockeying, demands and even pleading, little can be taken for granted, and some fashion houses and stars are trying to avoid the maelstrom through deals such as Reese Witherspoon’s season-long agreement to wear Nina Ricci.
Most nominees, presenters, guests and their stylists are in the final, frenzied decision-making phase. And the wise ones have a backup plan. After all, a designer’s creation might not end up being everything that was promised.
Here’s the latest on how the red-carpet race is shaping up, according to fashion house insiders.
BEST ACTRESS
Penélope Cruz
The Spanish trendsetter, known for showing love to a range of designers, may dazzle in Christian Dior. She has a long relationship with John Galliano, and has worn Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta to the Academy Awards. Her stylists, Estee Stanley and Cristina Ehrlich, always aim for the crème de la crème.
Judi Dench
Dench is clearly blessed with acting talent, so it’s forgivable that she’s not a fashion leader. She is, however, always appropriately dressed for the occasion.
Helen Mirren
The regal front-runner has proven she’s no slouch in the fashion department. Mirren’s choices are almost always age-appropriate, which precludes some daring dress better suited for a twentysomething. Expect to see her in an exquisitely made gown, fashioned with no less care, though much more flair, than those of Her Royal Highness herself. Mirren wore a $3,200 Morgane Le Fay gown to the SAG Awards that is now available in stores.
Meryl Streep
Streep, who has been nominated for an Oscar a record 14 times, tends to favor U.S. female designers, particularly Carolina Herrera. But perhaps she’ll go with Donna Karan or Vera Wang. She chooses to work with designers directly, not with a stylist.
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Kate Winslet
The British beauty could wear Oscar de la Renta or Valentino, with whom she has long relationships. Her stylist, Tanya Gill, said she had chosen one designer for the big day. The five-time nominee will no doubt pick a dress that flatters her voluptuous figure, and she’s known for flashbulb-popping gowns such as the pink Vivienne Westwood she wore for her first Oscar appearance in 1996.
SUPPORTING ACTRESS
Adriana Barraza
Call her the Latina Judi Dench. Who needs to have a drop-dead gown overshadow talent?
Abigail Breslin
The 10-year-old is the latest child nominee. She has plenty of years ahead to deal with dress drama, so why spoil her innocence now?
Cate Blanchett
The luminous 2005 best supporting actress winner — in a yellow gown by Valentino — should be wearing Giorgio Armani, with whom she has close ties.
Jennifer Hudson
The curvy newcomer may pick Carolina Herrera or Michael Kors as she selects from among six dresses. Her stylist, Jessica Paster, said she wanted to put Hudson in a designer who embraces full-figured women. Oscar pre-show host André Leon Talley has been rooting for Chanel.
Rinko Kikuchi
The young “Babel” actress is a virtual lock in Chanel. She has been wearing the house exclusively all season.
PRESENTERS
Jessica Biel
The telegenic starlet fills the eye candy role that Jessica Alba had last year (wearing Atelier Versace). A late addition to the lineup, she’s likely to wear a gown fresh off the runway rather than a custom-made creation.
Cameron Diaz
The red-carpet favorite is said to have sketches from Zac Posen and Gucci, and she has worn both previously. She created a stir at the Golden Globes this year in a white tulle creation with a black-jeweled belt from Valentino.
Kirsten Dunst
The uberhip Dunst and her stylists, Nina and Clare Halworth, are partial to showstopping French couture, particularly Christian Lacroix.
Anne Hathaway
The classic beauty is well-suited to Valentino, perhaps an archival gown. Her stylist, Rachel Zoe, has a relationship with the Italian house and just dressed client Diaz in Valentino at the Globes. It could be Hathaway’s turn.
Nicole Kidman
History shows she is a fan of Balenciaga, Chanel and Dior at the Oscars, though her stylist, L’Wrenn Scott, designs her own line now, too.
Jennifer Lopez
Her looks run the gamut, but are almost always flawless. Perhaps Valentino couture?
Reese Witherspoon
Last year’s best actress winner has a season-long agreement to wear Nina Ricci. Still, what will Olivier Theyskens fashion for her? Count on it to be different from the knee-length sheaths she wore to the Golden Globes and SAG Awards.
GUESTS
Beyoncé, who will perform, and Madonna could both be in Versace on the red carpet. No surprise, given Donatella Versace’s relationship with them and Versace’s impact at the Oscars.
Katie Holmes will most likely accompany husband Tom Cruise, who is a presenter. She could wear favorite Giorgio Armani, who designed her wedding gown, but if it is Blanchett’s night to shine in Armani, Holmes may tap one of the other houses whose shows she’s attended, such as Dior.
Jada Pinkett Smith and husband Will Smith, a best actor nominee, are said to want to wear the same designer, which narrows the field to those who design for men and women, including Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Versace, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana.