Corp Core and Boom Boom: Buyers Praise the Return of Maximalism

The chess game of designer moves paid off for the major houses, with the season of debuts of new creative directors seen as a resounding success.

Pieter Mulier’s official calendar debut collection for Alaïa was “spectacular” and “breathtaking,” with its voluptuous and padded silhouette registering as buyers’ top collection by far.

Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten and Sarah Burton at Givenchy were also given top marks by many buyers as the best collections of the season. Ackermann’s tough and precise take on suiting fits was “unapologetically seductive,” and fits into the new mood of the moment, while Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli captured the season’s return to dressing up with his glamorous, gilded collection.

“Each [were] propelling their respective brands forward with vision and creativity. Collectively, this signals a pivotal moment for our industry,” said Rickie de Sole, vice president and fashion director of Nordstrom.

They were harbingers of the new mood that has pushed out quiet luxury. For fall, there’s a new maximalism in town — and it is loud. TikTok calls it “boom boom,” reminiscent of ’80s power dressing with slim skirts, broad shoulders and an in-your-face aesthetic.

Buyers embraced the look for fall, particularly the “corp-core” trend of office dressing seen at Stella McCartney and embodied by the silhouettes at Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello closed out fashion week with a collection that had buyers updating their “best of” lists at the last minute.

“In an increasingly polished season, Saint Laurent was everything! Sleek yet sensuous, the best vivid color-block mixes of the week,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office at Bergdorf Goodman.

The silhouette moved toward ultra-feminine (hello, trad wives!), with an emphasis on cinched waists and sculpted hips, and buyers also reported a resurgence of cocktail dresses on their wish lists as consumers refocus on the importance of dressing up.

“Singularity is the new quiet, and it’s encouraging the customer to go back to creating looks instead of just following trends,” said Printemps buying director Maud Pupato.

With bigger proportions on the runway, the one place houses are playing small is with shows. Intimacy is the new buzzword for guest lists, with buyers welcoming the move toward more personal presentations.

Buyers praised the energy and direction of the week. “While other fashion capitals had moments of brilliance, Paris stood out for its ability to merge artistry with wearability, offering collections that felt exciting yet deeply rooted in craftsmanship,” said Mytheresa chief buying officer Tiffany Hsu.

While tariffs were the talk of the town, buyers reported that their budgets are up despite the topsy-turvy economic times. “Amidst global uncertainty, fashion remains a beacon of inspiration and resilience,” said Holt Renfrew fashion director Joseph Tang.

“Overall, the spirit is richly layered or creatively exciting. Fashion is getting louder,” said Moda Operandi chief merchant April Hennig, to sum up the week. “It’s a welcome shift.”

Below, buyers weigh in on Paris Fashion Week, and what they want for fall.

Beth Buccini, owner and founder, Kirna Zabête

Favorite collections: Alaïa, Sacai, Gabriela Hearst, Dries Van Noten, Chloé

Best show format: Loewe’s retrospective presentation that showed us what an indelible impression Jonathan Anderson has left on this house. Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy in the maison. And Saint Laurent’s gorgeous set near the Eiffel Tower with pink walls and bold, colorful clothes. 

Top trends: It was a season of sumptuous fabrics and textures — shearling, leather, sustainable exotics and furs. We still saw plays on sheer and lace and paillettes, and lots of rich burgundies and chocolate browns along with some great pops of color. 

Investment pieces: A shearling coat from Nour Hammour, an Alaïa dress with the heart cutout, the tassel jacket from Dries Van Noten, a fur stole from Miu Miu. 

Budgets up or down: Budgets are flat, as we spent heavily in pre and are being cautious in this chaotic environment. 

Impressions of the week: This was a week of firsts with some exciting debuts at Dries Van Noten, Givenchy and Tom Ford. All showed incredible collections, and it is exciting to see their new visions. 

Jennifer Cuvillier, director of style, Le Bon Marché

Favorite collections: Dior, Chloé, Rabanne, Victoria Beckham, Sacai.

Best show format: Courrèges was a happy show with the colorful effect of confetti floating around the models.

Top trends:  Modern rock attitude, shearling pieces and accessories, oversized shoulder silhouettes.

Investment pieces: Shearling jackets, perfecto leather jackets, jackets with oversized shoulders, red items, novelty knits, long winter dresses, full black looks, twisted tailoring, high boots.

New talent: CFCL, Clothing For Contemporary Life — a very clean wardrobe with sophisticated techniques and sustainable meaning. 

Impressions of the week: A very dynamic week with a lot of shows, presentations, trade shows and showrooms with worldwide talents, from ready-to-wear to accessories. It was a very positive week in terms of creation and commercial vision, with a lot of emerging designers and changes of artistic direction in many brands.

Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG China

Favorite collections: Hodakova, McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester, Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Kiko Kostadinov

Best show format:  Courrèges’ setup was vibrant — both literally and conceptually.

Top trends: Low-waist leather and suiting pants, skinny-fit trousers, polo shirts, and tight corporate knitwear.

Investment pieces: Leather pants and wool short jacket.

Budgets up or down: Up! Many new things and new talents.

New talent: Meryll Rogge and Alainpaul.

Impressions of the week: As fresh as the weather was. Lot of interesting designs and brands mostly renew themselves.

Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, Samaritaine Paris

Favorite collections: Alaïa, Schiaparelli, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Sacai 

Best show format: The Hide & Seek game at Marine Serre’s show at La Monnaie de Paris. We got a sneak peek of the models arriving on the catwalk through vintage TV sets.

Also, Loewe’s exhibition displaying his work as art pieces was incredible.

Top trends: The collections exuded power, with a clear focus on daytime wardrobes for women in leadership roles, while eveningwear balanced between romance and glamour.

Draping was a key element across all collections, from asymmetric drapes to 2-in-1 scarf necks, and draped elements on evening wear. The combo maxi pullover and pencil skirt will be the “it” look of the season.

Investment pieces: Maxi cashmere coats, shearling, ample suits, fake fur, long black tailored skirt, red dress and soft lambskin loafers.

New talent: So many energies on the new guard designers’ catwalks this season: Zomer, Duran Lantink, Atlein, among many others, are elevating their collections and offer wearability combo with newness.

Impressions of the week: Paris’ energy and creativity were so palpable. The collections were strong, elevated, and full of excitement with lots of fresh and new ideas. The first and successful shows of Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford or Sarah Burton for Givenchy were key moments of the week. Plenty of reasons for women to need to buy new clothes.

Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols

Best show format: Valentino was, without doubt, one of the best show experiences that I’ve had. In recreating a public bathroom, the brand presented a commentary on intimacy and identity with an accompanying soundtrack that created a fantastic, unsettling energy.  Models broke with the traditional rhythm of a runway, emerging from different bathroom stalls, stopping to regard themselves in mirrors.

Top trends: Leather was one of the dominant trends this season. For fall, it’s clear that leather will continue to be an essential trend for Harvey Nichols. Standout moments included Tom Ford’s striking blue leather shirt in look 27; the rich tonal head-to-toe looks at Gabriela Hearst, and Givenchy’s luxurious high-necked drape dresses, which were the epitome of elegance. Faux fur was another trend that could not be overlooked — it made an appearance in nearly every collection. While traditional faux fur jackets are always a staple, we are also embracing the trend in a more unexpected, playful way through trims or oversized accessories.

Investment pieces: One of my favorite buys this season had to be Alaïa outerwear. I adored the fitted, tailored coat from the show and the tubular detail on short jackets whether nylon on leather.

New talent: Duran Lantink continues to solidify his reputation as a designer to watch. His ability to create extreme, exaggerated silhouettes that remain surprisingly wearable sets him apart as one of the most exciting new talents in fashion today. His works show both bold experimentation and a deep understanding of how to create shapes that flatter and intrigue.

Impressions of the week: This season, the appointment of new creative directors across several major houses has proven to be a resounding success, fueling our excitement for what’s to come. Sarah Burton’s interpretation of Givenchy was nothing short of perfection. Drawing inspiration from sketches and designs found on the walls of Hubert de Givenchy’s old offices, she infused the collection with a fresh, contemporary sensibility, while staying true to the brand’s iconic codes. It felt like a sophisticated evolution of the house, with a perfect balance of classic and modern. 

Meanwhile, Haider Ackermann’s debut was another emotional moment for fashion. His powerful embrace with Tom Ford at the end of his show said it all. And Julien Klausner’s debut as creative director for Dries Van Noten honored his legacy, while introducing a fresh, modern perspective. The venue at Palais Garnier provided a breathtaking backdrop, amplifying the richness and opulence of the fabrics, making it one of the most memorable shows of the week. 

Jessica Crawley, head of buying, Ounass at Al Tayer Group

Favorite collections: Zimmermann, Alaïa, Chloé, Victoria Beckham

Best show format: Stella McCartney, Coperni, and Loewe elevated the runway experience through creative and immersive show formats. Stella McCartney’s “Stellacorp” concept stood out for its playful take on corporate culture, bringing a witty, tongue-in-cheek energy to the presentation. Coperni continued its trend of pushing boundaries by fusing tech and fashion, and Loewe created an intimate, artistic space that drew guests into the brand’s creative universe.

Top trends: Key trends this season continued to build on familiar codes. Leather and trenchcoats held their ground and oversized proportions, mainly exaggerated hips and bold shoulders, added an element of drama. Python prints, delicate lace, raw denim and voluminous shapes brought texture and contrast. The color palette leaned into classic earthy tones like black, brown and beige, with touches of red, burgundy, military green, blue and soft pink.

Investment pieces: For those who didn’t invest last season, the leather bomber or any standout leather outerwear emerged as the ultimate buy this season.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are trending up as business remains strong. We are seeing exciting opportunities for growth.

Impressions of the week: The week was full of bold creativity and standout moments, with designers embracing exaggerated silhouettes and impactful proportions. Yet a recurring conversation was around how some collections felt a little too safe, sticking to familiar territory. By contrast, others leaned into artistic expression, with pieces that felt more conceptual than wearable. However, the showrooms told a different story, offering plenty of commercial pieces that struck a balance between creativity and practicality. The contrast between creative risk and commercial appeal became a key theme of the week.

Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director, Rinascente

Favorite collections: Chloé, Tom Ford, Valentino, Miu Miu

Best show format: Valentino with the Red venue plus the Dior and Robert Wilson stage.

Top trends: Dresses in all variations, from the more romantic to the Gothic version. Different lengths have been presented and linked to the widest range of material. Strong presence of embroidery and embellishment to turn also a daywear look into a more special and unique one. A multilayered proposal has been presented in most of the shows playing with furs, coats, blouses and jackets. The more feminine look has been also expressed by full leather or full knitwear sets paired with lace or chiffon dresses or tops.

Investment pieces: Evening dresses, wide shoulder coat, all embellished, leather full looks.

Budgets up or down: Up

New talent: We continue to follow Niccolò Pasqualetti.

Impressions of the week: As seen during Milan Fashion Week also, a new maximalism is taking over all the runways interpreted in a very different way. Identity and brand interpretation of the feminine came out very strongly in every show, with a distinctive and innovative approach.

Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Alaïa, Tom Ford, Chloé, Schiaparelli, Miu Miu

Best show format: Courrèges combined sleek, modern sensuality with a finale that was pure celebration — an eruption of multicolored confetti that brought an infectious sense of joy to the runway. Anticipation ran high for Sarah Burton’s debut show at Givenchy — and it delivered. Held at the Givenchy headquarters on Avenue George V, the seating arrangement stood out, with stacks of brown paper pattern boxes lining the room, creating an intimate atmosphere.

Top trends: Paris Fashion Week for fall 2025 brought a confident return to office dressing. From Stella McCartney to Balenciaga, designers tapped into the power of tailoring and sleek pumps to redefine workwear for the modern professional. The collections were rooted in elegance and functionality. New iterations of the Rodeo and Bel Air bags at Balenciaga will continue to top must-have lists this fall. Faux fur and shearling emerged as standout materials, used in unexpected ways to create statement coats and layered textures.

Sculptural silhouettes challenged traditional proportions, amplifying shoulders and hips to take up space unapologetically with commanding, powerful shapes. Texture play defined the week, with feathers, shearling and embellishments adding depth and intrigue. Even the simplest silhouettes came alive through thoughtful, intentional details, as seen at Sacai, where layers ranged from airy to rich knits and sumptuous trim. 

New talent: The best new talent at Paris Fashion Week brought fresh perspectives to the forefront. New York City-based designer Meuret Tolegen, an LVMH Prize finalist, impressed with her soft, romantic aesthetic and exquisite construction. Meanwhile, Belgian designer Julie Kegels continued to captivate, offering unexpected riffs on corporate dressing that thoughtfully explored the intersection of personal and professional style. 

Impressions of the week: This was a fantastic week in Paris — energetic and full of strong debuts. Notable highlights included Julian Klausner’s impressive debut at Dries Van Noten, as well as the remarkable contributions of Sarah Burton and Haider Ackermann, each propelling their respective brands forward with vision and creativity. Collectively, this signals a pivotal moment for our industry. 

The office, an inescapable part of daily life, took center stage, with runways offering fresh perspectives on how to dress for it — featuring covetable bags and sharply designed shoes. The mood at Paris Fashion Week highlighted the importance of dressing up, with show-stopping gowns from Valentino, McQueen and more. These pieces showcased impeccable craftsmanship and were perfectly suited for red carpet moments and special event dressing.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office, director of women’s fashion and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: Schiaparelli, Alaïa, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Tom Ford, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent 

Best show format: We could barely tear ourselves away from Loewe’s inspiring juxtapositions of Art & Fashion set up in the former Lagerfeld home. Each salon allowed for close-up engagement with Jonathan Anderson’s highly inventive and extraordinary work, as well as with his very special curation of art.  A real Fashion Experience. 

Top trends: Textures and tactility were key; dramatic applications of faux fur, shearling and upcycled vintage fur, leather dressing everywhere, crafted and artisanal techniques, exaggerated, knits, crochet and wild fringe. Python and patent are on the buy list. 

Polished Core; dressed up and tailored to a T. Even the more historically renegade young designers sent out more polished messages. All the new high heels and lady-esque bags supported the dressy trend. 

A new maximalism is taking hold; more embellishment, color, detailing and thematics. Trending details; face-framing hoods, lacy elaborate hosiery, extra sheer sunglasses. 

Cool girl Romantics struck a chord whether with a ’70s, Victorian or bohemian vibe. Yards of lace, pretty floating chiffons, ruffles and lingerie elements all grounded with both leather and furs. Shapely silhouettes with wider shoulders narrowing into hourglass cuts. 

Interplays of typically masculine and feminine elements — Think chalk stripes and chiffon or tailoring and flou. Strong empowered shoulder interest walked all week.

Investment pieces: The curved Le Click bag at Alaïa and the sharp backwards jacket at Givenchy. Invest in leather dressing, novelty shearling, something maximalist and collectible, a new hourglass tailored jacket and sharp higher pointy-toed heels. 

New talent: The LVMH Prize curation is always a highlight and bursting with energy and promise.  We were excited to see Zomer and Alainpaul in the group of contenders.  

Impressions of the week: The City of Light came through, literally, with unusually light and sunny skies, fulfilling debuts, creative superlatives, and overflowing buckets of trends that we can invest in. Change is the new constant, and we’re all in.

April Hennig, chief merchant, Moda Operandi

Favorite collections: The Row, Alaïa, Chloé, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Miu Miu

Top trends: The Paris collections were richly elevated and creatively charged — we’re all excited that luxury isn’t so quiet anymore. The ubiquity of fur (faux, real, or shearling) continued from New York and Milan, appearing on nearly every runway. Texture also appeared in the form of a return to surface embroideries, as seen at Dries, Rabanne, and Johanna Ortiz; and tweed, bouclé, and Donegal knits at Valentino and The Row. Designers referenced across eras, from vintage elements made new such as Victorian cropped jackets with articulated shoulders, lace trims and insets, and ruffled peplums at Chloé, Zimmermann, and Valentino; to surrealist futurism via exaggerated silhouettes at Alaïa, Victoria Beckham, and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt. A seductive sensuality came through at Christopher Esber and Burc Aykol through fluid transparencies, while python print exuded confidence at Gabriela Hearst, Zimmermann, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin. Basque tailoring emphasized the waist at Givenchy and Schiaparelli. Designers continue to lean into Western and “office core” trends. There was also a preoccupation with the head: head scarves and hoods came in multiple variations at Magda Butrym, Valentino, and Dries Van Noten. 

Investment pieces: Fur stoles and oversized brooches adorned track jackets at Miu Miu, lace body suits at Valentino, tights ranging from lux cashmere at The Row to cargo pocketed versions at Coperni, Gabriela Hearst’s cowboy boots. For handbags, it’s all about Alaïa’s Le Click handbag, and new variations of Balenciaga’s “It” bag the Rodeo & Bel Air.

Best show format: Coperni’s LAN party, which was a truly immersive experience complete with gamers and vegetarian hot dogs. Valentino’s red bathroom stalls [set] was memorable, and who could forget Stella McCartney’s “laptop to lap dance” office (complete with copy machines and pole dancers). 

New talent: We were excited by the new collections of recent portfolio additions Niccolò Pasqualetti, Burc Akyol, and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt. 

Budgets up or down: Budgets reflect the continued positive momentum in our business, with cautious optimism. 

Impressions of the week: Each season Paris continues to cement its position as the foremost fashion city. The energy and buzz around debut collections from newly appointed creative directors like Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, and Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten reflect the transition to a new era in fashion ushered in by many more new and pending designer positions. Overall, the spirit is richly layered or creatively exciting. Fashion is getting louder. It’s a welcome shift.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Alaïa, Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli, Chloé, Tom Ford

Best show format: Coperni redefined the fashion show experience by immersing guests in a dynamic, digital world. Staging their collection in a massive stadium surrounded by 200 gamers actively playing “Fortnite” was a bold and playful move, capturing the intersection of technology and fashion in a way that felt current and engaging. By contrast, The Row opted for an intimate, salon-style presentation at their headquarters, evoking a sense of quiet luxury. Guests lounged on sofas and armchairs, creating an atmosphere of understated refinement — an experience that felt deeply personal, aligning with the brand’s philosophy. Loewe took a more conceptual approach by presenting their collection in Karl Lagerfeld’s former residence, blending art and fashion in a space that held deep creative significance. Each of these presentations reflected a unique vision, proving that the way a collection is experienced is just as important as the clothes themselves.

Top trends: One of the most dominant trends this season was statement outerwear in shearling. From Magda Butrym to Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Acne Studios, and Chloé, designers embraced the texture with a nod to retro aesthetics, offering luxurious yet functional coats that feel both nostalgic and forward-thinking. Another major shift was the return of boho, led by Chloé, which brought back flowing silhouettes, rich textures, and an effortless, free-spirited elegance that resonates with today’s consumers.

A key standout was the resurgence of jewel tones, seen in the collections of Saint Laurent and Tom Ford under Haider Ackermann. Ackermann’s take on Tom Ford introduced a sense of refinement to the brand’s signature boldness, proving that colorful tailoring will be a major must next season. This shift toward rich, saturated hues brings a fresh sense of vibrancy to traditional suiting, signaling a move towards powerful yet sophisticated dressing.

In footwear, all eyes were on Christen, the new brand by a former shoe designer for Bottega Veneta, The Row, and Loewe. Her minimalist, modern, and inherently wearable designs struck the perfect balance between sensuality and comfort — an approach that feels increasingly relevant in luxury fashion.

Investment pieces: This season’s must-have pieces speak to both craftsmanship and desirability. The Magda Butrym shearling coat is an undeniable investment piece, blending warmth with statement-making design. The Row’s Marlo bag is another standout, encapsulating the brand’s quiet luxury ethos in an effortless, sculptural form. Accessories-wise, Schiaparelli’s triple belt brings an avant-garde touch to any look, while Alaïa’s electric blue pumps add a vibrant, architectural edge to footwear trends. These are the pieces that will define wardrobes in the coming months.

New talent: A particularly exciting newcomer was Duran Lantink, who challenged conventional fashion narratives with his sustainable, modular approach — an inspiring direction for the industry.

Impressions of the week: Paris was undoubtedly the highlight of this fashion month, setting a new standard for creativity and innovation. From Alaïa’s highly anticipated opening to Saint Laurent’s grand finale, the city delivered a lineup that felt visionary and inspiring. There was a palpable energy — a sense that Paris was not only celebrating its heritage but also pushing the industry forward with fresh perspectives and bold ideas. While other fashion capitals had moments of brilliance, Paris stood out for its ability to merge artistry with wearability, offering collections that felt exciting yet deeply rooted in craftsmanship. This season, the city reaffirmed its status as the beating heart of fashion, looking to the future with confidence and a renewed sense of purpose.

Jodi Kahn, vice president luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Alaïa, Tom Ford, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Schiaparelli

Best show format: Loewe’s presentation, interwoven with pieces from the Loewe Art Collection, was nothing short of breathtaking. It was the perfect way to appreciate the exquisite craft of each piece. Jonathan Anderson knows how to impress. Meanwhile, Coperni continues to leverage technology as a source of inspiration. The brand’s multi-sensory, large-scale gaming experience was a true fashion first.

Top trends: Tailoring was turned upside down and inside out, while layered dressing remains important and a bold ‘80s energy emerges, which were amplified by soundtrack choices. Python prints popped at Gabriela Hearst and appeared in couture-like techniques at Tom Ford and Rick Owens. Hats, hoods and futuristic balaclavas framed the face across runways, with standout moments at Valentino, Balmain and Rabanne. A fascination with the female form — particularly the sculpting of hips, varying in scale and surreal abstraction — were prominent at Duran, Marine Serre and Alaïa.  Scattered gems reinforced a more maximalist spirit, most memorably at Dries Van Noten.

Investment pieces: Must-have investment pieces include the Tom Ford embossed leather coat in a perfect shade of deep red and the embroidered tassel jacket from Dries Van Noten, which offers the perfect combination of texture and embroidery in a classic shape.

New talent: Zomer’s playful questioning of the “right” way to get dressed was cheeky, joyful and very well executed. The room was engaged and energized; a feat not easily achieved. Another standout was Duran Lantink, who evolved his foam-padded sculpted shapes into a more wearable realm while maintaining his distinct defiance of conventional ideals of body and beauty.

Impressions of the week: In the golden sunshine of Paris, it was exciting to have three fantastic debuts this week. A well-deserved recognition to Julian Klausner, Haider Ackermann and Sarah Burton for rising to their moments with confidence and vision. Across the runways, a renewed focus on technique, craft and pushing the limitations of materiality, with Alaïa, Loewe and Valentino sparking our imaginations. Comme des Garçons, Undercover and Rick Owens infused their collections with deep emotion, reminding us of the power of originality and sensitivity. And while Paris is the destination for some of fashion’s biggest power players, the city’s emerging and independent talents shouldn’t be overlooked. Vaquera, Zomer and Hodakova delivered some of the most dynamic and well-attended shows of the week. Fashion is nothing without a full chorus of voices! 

Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s New York and The Hamptons

Favorite collections: Georges Hobeika, Harris Reed for Nina Ricci, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Raisa Vanessa, Stephane Rolland, Victoria Beckham

Top trends: Ruffles, minis, and belts: Focus on waistlines, peplums, and the celebration of hourglass shapes. Belts and cinched waists were seen everywhere. Opulence and chic: Sequins, gold hardware, and luxurious textures gave the season a high-end, glamorous vibe. Fringe: A playful yet elegant addition to many collections, often paired with more structured pieces. Bodysuits: A standout trend, offering sleek, sculptural silhouettes. White shirt: A timeless staple making a strong return with modern reinterpretations.

Investment pieces: Given the strong emphasis on timeless, well-tailored items, the investment piece of the season would likely be a piece that combines structure with versatility, such as a cinched-waist coat or jacket, a structured bodysuit or classic white shirt or leather pieces with a focus on details like peplums or fringe accents.

New talent: It’s fascinating to see how fresh perspectives are shaping the future of iconic fashion houses. The new generation of designers brings a lot of energy, innovation, and a sense of authenticity to the table, often blending the legacy of the brand with their own unique vision. Whether it’s bold reinterpretations of classic styles, incorporating sustainability, or breaking traditional norms, these designers are really defining what luxury fashion will look like in the coming years.

Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week felt like a journey through time, blending nostalgia with modern innovation. The collections were a mix of opulence, chic sophistication, and cutting-edge designs with intimacy on the runways. Designers embraced both avant-garde elements and classic shapes, with a strong emphasis on structured tailoring and intricate details. An undercurrent of nostalgia referencing past decades from the ‘80s Claude Montana resurgence to the early 2000s spirit, showcasing a desire to honor fashion’s rich history while pushing boundaries. 

Simon Longland, buying director of fashion, Harrods

Favorite collections: Givenchy, Tom Ford, Schiaparelli, Alaïa, The Row

Best show format: Alaïa, Schiaparelli, Hermès, The Row, and Givenchy stood out for their precision, restraint, and craftsmanship. The most impactful shows were smaller in format, allowing for a closer appreciation of the pieces and the skill behind them.

Top trends: Texture defined the season. Shaggy faux fur and shearling were omnipresent, making statement outerwear the key investment, best layered over rich brown leather. Leather and suede extended into skirts, trousers and shirting, reinforcing their role as foundational materials. Tailoring focused on sculptural silhouettes with quiet authority.

Color took a strong direction. Bitter chocolate brown emerged as the new black, complemented by tan and chestnut. Red, from scarlet to bordeaux, was the boldest statement. Heritage fabrics grounded collections in tradition while ensuring modern relevance.

Impressions of the week: Fall ‘25 in Paris reaffirmed that true luxury is rooted in clarity, craftsmanship, and conviction. While some houses redefine their identity, others are at the height of their influence, setting the standard for the season ahead.

Denise Magid, chief merchant, Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, Givenchy, Chloé

Best show format: When Valentino Garavani created Valentino Red, he likely never imagined it would grace the walls of a gender-neutral bathroom. But in this new era, that’s exactly what we found at Alessandro Michele’s show space. The vast, cavernous setting was the ideal backdrop for his bold, maximalist dresses and slouchy tailoring. And what a treat to see the fun world of Ralph Lauren in Paris. Always refreshing to get a dose of casual American cool in the world’s fashion capital.

Top trends: Fringe injected an electrifying energy across many of the Paris runways, while snake print and vibrant croc textures brought a bold dimension to collections. Faux fur and shearling continued to dominate especially in dramatic proportions, adding both luxury and warmth. Meanwhile, the belt firmly cemented its status as a key accessory, styled not only with tailored pieces but also draped over outerwear and even cinching the waists of more feminine, flowing dresses.

Investment pieces: Strength has emerged as a dominant theme on the Paris runways this season. Standout pieces include Tom Ford’s opulent croc T-shirt and striking leather outerwear, particularly the trenchcoat that reverses to reveal a white interior. Givenchy also delivered a masterclass in sharp tailoring, presenting powerful silhouettes across the board. Even Chloé’s softer, bohemian woman embraced the season’s emphasis on strength, with standout pieces like leather pants and a rich bordeaux trenchcoat. When not donning Zimmermann’s chic braided riding boots or the fun slouchy boots from Balmain, she is ready to go in the exciting Puma x Balenciaga collaboration or Alessandro Michele’s Vans at Valentino. 

Impressions of the week: This season in Paris has been all about new beginnings. Designers like Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten, and Sarah Burton at Givenchy faced the monumental challenge of reimagining iconic brands for a rapidly changing world — and they each succeeded in captivating, and in distinctive ways, delivering inspiring collections. Beyond these reboots, we’ve also been inspired by the fresh direction from other houses. Chloé’s ongoing evolution under Chemena Kamali continues to expand the definition of the bohemian Chloé woman, while Alessandro Michele’s reinvention of Valentino will undoubtedly inspire a new generation of fans. Paris has truly been a breath of fresh air, a celebration of personal style, offering an exciting glimpse into the future.  Embroidery, texture, and prints were all center stage which ended fashion month on a high note — and we love what we see. 

Alix Morabito, general buying and merchandising director for womenswear, Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collections: The Row, Valentino, Stella McCartney, Rick Owens, Marine Serre

Best show format: Zomer and its “tout à l’envers” (opposite) format — and collection — starting with the finale. The office set at Stella McCartney with Bianca Li’s dancers’ performance. The future Betak office for Duran Lantink with the performance of opera singers sitting in their office, singing and creating the show’s soundtrack. The red changing rooms/nightclub toilets at Valentino.

Top trends: Office wear at Stella McCartney, Acne, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, Balenciaga; glamorous cinematographic silhouettes with a lot of ’60s inspiration at Valentino, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Miu Miu; decalage, second degree and quirkiness at Kenzo, Duran Lantink, Zomer, and less styling, which helps to put more emphasis on the products at Rick Owens, Marine Serre, Courrèges.

Investment pieces: Fur (mainly shearling lookalike fur or recycled) is everywhere in full pieces or details; leather or suede blousons and jackets with vintage inspiration; pencil skirts; skirts with trains, lavallières on shirts, long scarf details as collars; oversize square knitwear; tracksuit jackets;  slim pants and leggings; eveningwear (satin, draped, velvet, lace and a black or red evening dress is a must); colors (khaki, green, brown, a licorice palette and touches of red, pink and yellow); accessories — lots of tights (from lace to wool), high-knee boots, office bags, and motifs — animal prints (leopard, zebra, python, cow) and checks.

New talent: Duran Lantink showed a brilliant Duranimals collection — it was creative and sharp, very well done. He definitely stands out. Marie Adam-Leenaerdt was intimate and powerful, playing with the inside-out and the versatility of the pieces. Zomer was happy, immediately understandable and wearable. Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s comeback is really pertinent at this time, as we all feel the need of a new sexy approach. His proposition was very strong, yet elegant and sensual.

Impressions of the week: It was an energetic week, full of sunshine, creativity, singularity and focused proposals with highly desirable trends.

Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and womenswear, Selfridges

Favorite collections: Rei Kawakubo at Comme Des Garçons, Schiaparelli, Alaïa, Sacai

Best show format: The intimacy of the Givenchy shows, and Sarah Burton’s debut was the perfect backdrop to showcase the collection, which felt like a reset for the house, and we are excited to see more.

Stella McCartney set her show this season in an office block and created an atmosphere that included performances by actors replaying offices scenes, as well as a pole dancer bringing a scene of fun to the collection.

Hermès’ show was a beautiful exploration of wardrobing, as well as of course showing very exciting new versions of the iconic accessories.

Top trends: Trenchcoats in all shapes, materials and variations were present on most runways. Deep greens and burgundys I would say are colors of the season.

New talent: Duran Lantink — his show has gone viral with this opening look which has all eyes on the collection, and we loved his play on denim, especially his half trousers.

Impressions of the week: Paris is undoubtedly one of the leading fashion capitals — in a week you can see some of the best shows and collections from global fashion brands, a city not to be missed.

Roopal Patel, senior vice president fashion director, Saks

Favorite collections: Alaïa, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Loewe, Schiaparelli, Givenchy, Valentino

Best show format: Saint Laurent’s onyx crystalline oval set was magnificent. It felt like we stepped into a healing chamber that provided calmness to the end of Paris Fashion Week. Courrèges’ colorful confetti blast brought much joy and good vibes to the week. Alessandro Michele’s public bathroom felt like a nightclub that had the best dressed guests.

Top trends: Statement outerwear is a must-have this season with so many coats to choose from. Sculpted options from Alaïa, The Row and Givenchy had so much texture, including fur, faux fur, treated shearling, leather and more. The return to corp-core, razor-sharp tailoring, skirts and the midi-skirt suit. Sculptural silhouettes were exaggerated in everything from skirts, power shoulders, hourglass jackets, coats and gowns. There were Victorian influences and lace ailettes, feathers and fringe. Glamorous eveningwear is back in a big way for the fall ‘25 season.

Investment pieces: Alaïa’s sculptural skirt looks and fringe flower sandals; a razor-sharp cut suit from Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford; Sarah Burton’s Givenchy sculpted black leather jacket and skirt; One of Chloé’s Victorian-inspired lace gowns with shearling stoles; The Row’s ivory high collar coat. 

New talent: Duran Lantink; Zomer

Impressions of the week: With the early start of spring in the air, Paris was buzzy with some mega jaw-dropping moments. The much-anticipated debuts did not disappoint. Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten all delivered and ushered in a new era. Designers looked to the past to set the tone of the present moment in time. The exploration of new, creative ideas through shape, silhouette and form without restraint could be felt, not just seen, on the runways. It was the perfect way to wrap up the fall ‘25 fashion marathon.

Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, Printemps

Favorite collections: Valentino, Chloé, Miu Miu, The Row, Courrèges

Best show format: Cozy presentations in smaller spaces and [intimate] atmospheres were very appropriated this time. The Row was the master and Kenzo followed with its invitation at home in the HQ. Victoria Beckham and her candle-lit, dim ambiance.

Top trends: Maximalist romanticism, cozy elegant knitwear, retro-futurist, ’70s, lace and transparency, fluidity versus structure, fur details, reinterpreted trenches, boyish touches and office wear.

Investment pieces: A trench from Chloé or Balenciaga, or in leather from Christopher Esber. A lavallière top from Valentino or Acne. High-thigh tights from Victoria Beckham or high socks from Miu Miu. Anything asymmetric from Courrèges. A fur collar or scarf from Chloé or Valentino. A string tailored jacket from The Row or Hodakova. A Givenchy coat. A Miu Miu white tank top.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are flat with an extra pocket for new talents.

New talent: Julie Kegels’ designs frequently play with structure, layering and exaggerated proportions, reinterpreting classic wardrobe staples in unexpected ways. The references to finance bro fleeces and Eighties power suits being flipped or exaggerated align with her signature aesthetic. The Parisian brand Matières Fécales, established by Hannah Rose and Steven Raj, blends sophisticated glamour with bold individuality. Drawing inspiration from designers like Rick Owens or Mugler, their dramatic, couture-inspired silhouettes have shaped a unique post-human aesthetic and garnered a dedicated following.

Impressions of the week: The week is less dynamic than previously — slower and more balanced. The global feeling is trending toward a more harmonious rhythm, and it feels good. Some shows and presentations remain very creative, and brands are doing their best to stand out while the past seasons were more going toward the same minimalist trend and approach. Singularity is the new quiet, and it’s encouraging the customer to go back to creating looks instead of just following trends.  

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Miu Miu

Best show format: This season, with a wave of designer debuts, the Paris collections embraced a more intimate approach, stripping away large-scale productions to let the designs shine.

Top trends: This season was defined by retro glamour, rich textures, and layered ready-to-wear. There was a retro attitude at Valentino, Dries Van Noten, and Chloé with a reinterpreted vision of glamour with a relaxed yet elegant approach. Statement outerwear at designers like Loewe, The Row, Sacai, and Balenciaga showcased fall’s best coats, incorporating wrapped draperies and scarf-like styling.

Shaggy shearlings and faux fur innovations at Stella McCartney, Rick Owens, Miu Miu, and Alaïa experimented with new textures and fabrications.

Victorian influence at McQueen, Christian Dior, and Zimmermann embraced lace, embroidery, and a juxtaposition of masculine and feminine aesthetics — styling details that are set to make an impact.

Investment pieces: This season marks the reinvention of classics, bringing nostalgic pieces back for a new generation. Chloé’s Paddington bag, McQueen’s skull scarf, Dior’s “J’Adore Dior” T, Alaïa’s hip bag, Loewe’s fringed leather moto jacket, The Row’s wrap coat, Tom Ford’s bonded leather pieces.

Budgets up or down: We remain energized by the talent coming out of Paris and continue to invest in brands with whom we have built strong partnerships.

New talent: Exploring new and emerging talent was a key focus this season. We especially enjoyed meeting the semi-finalists of the LVMH Prize, whose creativity and global perspectives continue to shape the future of fashion.

Impressions of the week: The biggest takeaway from this season? Designers are redefining femininity — propelling women into a renewed vision of strength, confidence and sensuality. With numerous debuts at major fashion houses, the new creative directions did not disappoint.

We anticipate that these shifts will have a lasting impact on future collections. Amidst global uncertainty, fashion remains a beacon of inspiration and resilience. Paris has once again set the tone, and we’re excited to bring this energy back to our clients.

Lydia Zacharis, buying manager, Net-a-porter

Favorite collections:  The Row, Alaïa, Chloé, Dries Van Noten, Tom Ford

Best show format: The Row maintained their no-phone policy, which remains refreshing in today’s social media-driven world. This season also saw no assigned seating, with models walking barefoot. Alessandro Michele’s second runway collection, in a Lynchian red-lit public bathroom, made a bold statement by exploring the concept of public vs. private. Polo Ralph Lauren held their presentation at their flagship in Saint Germain, showcasing some of the best styling we have seen all season.  

Top trends: Paris has embraced ‘80s power dressing this season, incorporating modern takes on the secretary look with bold shoulders, slim tailored blazers, midi pencil skirts and square-toe pumps. Grace Jones epitomizes the season’s style with lots of dramatic hoods, leather jackets and leggings too. Fur also continued to make its mark, with a shearling or faux fur piece in almost every collection.

Investment pieces:  Outerwear is typically the best investment for autumn-winter and this season is no exception — it has been a particularly strong and varied season. We saw capes and hooded jackets from The Row, Alaia and Magda Butrym, long tailored wool coats from Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney, vintage-inspired collector jackets from Valentino and Dries Van Noten, as well as bold shearling pieces from Chloé, Gabriela Hearst and Balenciaga. 

New talent: The new wave of creative directors at established houses have all had a strong start. Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten and Sarah Burton at Givenchy all made their very promising debuts for these renowned houses. 

Impressions of the week:  Paris remains reliable, offering a strong mix of various aesthetics. As anticipated, brands saved the best for last. 

Will Zhang, founder, SND


Favorite collections: Chloé, Alaïa, Loewe, Ann Demeulemeester

Best show format: Alaïa FW25 undoubtedly delivered one of the most artistically compelling presentations of the season. The show took place in a space adorned with sculptures by Mark Manders, serving as the very atelier where Alaïa’s creations come to life, a sanctuary where art and fashion intersect. Within this serene yet sculptural setting, the collection unfolded seamlessly, enhancing the brand’s signature silhouettes and textures. The interplay between fashion and architecture created a silent yet profound dialogue.

Top trends: This season saw a strong resurgence of fur and leather materials, adding depth and power to silhouettes. Color blocking emerged as a key direction, with Dries Van Noten employing watercolor-like gradient hues, while Loewe used bold color contrasts to craft dramatic visual compositions. Additionally, Chloé’s signature bohemian lacework received a fresh update, where structured tailoring reimagined lace in a way that preserved the brand’s heritage while embracing a more contemporary, liberated aesthetic.

Investment pieces: Chloé’s looks 1, 13, and 21 stand out as must-have pieces of the season, reflecting the brand’s revitalized design philosophy, practical yet undeniably refined. Another highlight is the revival of the iconic padlock bag, reintroduced in softer leather and updated colorways, exuding a timeless allure worthy of both collection and admiration.

Budgets up or down: Compared to previous seasons, the overall budget has seen a modest increase. While we have maintained a cautious strategy over the past few quarters, key market trends and standout collections have prompted selective budget expansions to ensure alignment with brand demand and consumer interest.

New talent: Rizpoli has emerged as one of the most noteworthy new brands this season. With a highly distinctive approach to tailoring and an exceptional command of proportion, the brand strikes a delicate balance between structure and fluidity, establishing itself as a rising force in contemporary fashion.

Impressions of the week: Unlike the typically rainy Paris Fashion Week, this season was marked by exceptionally clear skies and abundant sunshine, which added a pleasant touch to the hectic schedule. The smooth flow of events and industry interactions unfolded against a backdrop of bright, invigorating weather, making this season’s experience all the more memorable.

– With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.