NEW YORK — Those who grumbled when Marc Jacobs’ fall runway show started 90 minutes late might be pleased to know he’s decided to keep a more serious eye on time.
Through a license with Fossil Inc., Jacobs will launch a collection of fine watches for fall. The nine styles will be presented to buyers next month.
The vintage-inspired collection features small oval faces, black grosgrain ribbon straps and diamond detailing.
Jacobs said Venetia Scott, with whom he always collaborates on the main women’s wear collection and accessories, and he “liked the idea of a very small watch, something that didn’t look heavy or big or sporty.”
“I’ve seen girls with vintage Cartier watches that I love,” he added. “We all agreed we didn’t want something modern looking. We wanted it to have a kind of old feel to it. All the girls we know wear those kinds of things.”
The collection will be offered to high-end department and specialty stores in the U.S., Europe and Asia. Initial distribution will be controlled and will be limited to about 150 doors, said Barbara Korn, vice president of luxury brands at Fossil. Marc Jacobs boutiques will receive deliveries of the watches before they reach other accounts. Retail prices range from $650 to $2,500.
Jacobs is committed to the category and has included an area specifically for watch merchandising in his new Los Angeles and Shanghai boutiques.
Fossil’s luxury division, which also includes the Burberry, Zodiac and Michele brands, has been growing steadily in the last year. The category’s sales increased by double digits in 2004, Korn said. For the year, Fossil’s earnings jumped 36 percent to $93.1 million on revenues that were up 22.9 percent to $960 million.
“Marc Jacobs’ name is such a powerful name in fashion and we’re a powerful name in watches,” she said. “It continues our ever-expanding focus on luxury. The demand for diamonds is explosive. I think there’s unlimited potential based on how strong his name is.”
In fall 2006, Marc by Marc Jacobs watches will be introduced and sold at a price point lower than that of the Marc Jacobs collection. Prices are still being determined. Distribution will cover a broader range as well.
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Jacobs president Robert Duffy approached Fossil with the Marc by Marc Jacobs line in mind.
“I wanted someone who could react really quickly to trends,” he said. “That’s where I became interested in Fossil ,because I know what they did at one time for Armani and I always thought it was very impressive.”
Duffy said Marc Jacobs customers have been asking for watches for years. They’ve also been asking about baby clothes, and soon the designer will oblige.
“The next thing Marc and I want to do is just a small, teeny thing of children’s wear,” Duffy said. “We get requests for our thermals and cashmere hoodies for children so we’re developing those now ourselves.”
Samples for a small kids’ line are complete and Duffy hopes it will be in Marc Jacobs stores by fall. He said the firm is not considering licensing the collection.