A reliable go-to for Berliner girly chic, Malaika Raiss envisioned “rebel mermaids” for spring 2017. Yet the looks on the Kronprinzenpalais runway felt more sweet than tough. Playing to the collection’s name, “Beaches,” a scallop-shape formed the bodice of a satiny jumpsuit, and Neoprene was coaxed into an oversize waistcoat and cinched rippled belts. Fishnet-evoking shorts, trousers and a cropped jumpsuit were made of broderie anglaise, some with palm patterns.
Knits are a bestseller for Malaikaraiss, and here they came in fine-gauge modal, worn under sheer bras and silky slipdresses, and also decorated with patches that chirped, “Hola.” Other embellishments included embroidered ribbons that trailed from arms and shoulders, and white metal grommets that punched up a cream camisole and a strappy gown, both in alcantara wool.
Raiss said she was trying to please her sales agent with more commercial, younger garments, and at the same time satisfy herself and her design team with bolder show pieces and the party looks she dubs “semicouture.” These creative stretches were mostly pretty, but at times off-putting. Supersize pleating worked well at waistlines, for example; but stitched around the bustline of a khaki parka and blocky vest, it had some viewers hoping for a judicious pair of scissors.