Independent better and bridge sportswear designers are preparing for a host of introductions that reveal a focus on separates, color and misses’ looks that are fashion-right, but not too trendy.
The business appeal of better and bridge sportswear is obvious: Together, the categories represent more than 60 percent of all department store women’s apparel sales, according to market research from The NPD Group in Port Washington, N.Y.
Overall apparel sales made a comeback last year after a three-year decline, and NPD analyst Marshal Cohen predicted it will continue to expand another 2.6 to 2.9 percent this year. Women’s sportswear is contributing to much of that growth. In the first half of this year, the segment has been booming, with sales up 15.9 percent to nearly $6.3 billion, according to NPD.
And Cohen expects the better segment of the sportswear market to retain its dominant position. Even if people get a big new job, they don’t typically change the way they spend on clothes, he said. “I will not suddenly start buying myself $10,000 suits.”
Eyeing an opportunity in better, last year no fewer than eight fashion powerhouses introduced collections hoping to grab a slice of this hefty market. They included Michael by Michael Kors, H from Tommy Hilfiger, Realities from Liz Claiborne and the Signature collection by Jones Apparel Group, which now ranks fifth among the top 10 best-selling department store sportswear brands.
But smaller players are looking to make news, too. For the second time, multiline representatives have been given exhibit space all their own at WWDMAGIC in a juried environment for better and bridge sportswear called Window. The concept was introduced at the February show and will be repeated this week with 27 brands, a 35 percent increase over the previous outing.
Don Reichman of Reichman & Associates of Los Angeles, said his retail customers have been expressing interest in novelty tops and bottoms with upgraded fabrics. At the same time, he said, “They are looking for price.” He hopes to deliver with lines like Pow-Wow, a collection of tops — from tunics to shrugs — that use crocheted materials and sequins, for $30 to $100 wholesale. Fibers by Barbara Lesser, another line he reps — although at WWDMAGIC it will be exhibited apart from other Reichman lines, under its own banner — is offering a better quality denim pant with novelty washes.
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The demand for products with more trim and higher-quality fabric has put pressure on manufacturers. “Retailers are not looking to jump up another price level,” said Reichman. “They are very careful with their buying.”
NPD’s Cohen said although there has been renewed consumer interest in fashion, other economic issues, such as rising gas prices, are cutting into discretionary income, forcing shoppers to be more thoughtful in their selections. “In the past, if you were into buying clothes, you would buy no matter what,” he said. “But now consumers have to think twice or even thrice” about where they want to spend.
Barbara Nogg, owner of Barbara Nogg Inc. of Los Angeles, a designer rep who supplies specialty stores, is finding that shoppers are interested in multiuse fashions.
“They are looking for ‘the item,’ those easy pieces that somebody can throw their entire wardrobe around,” said Nogg. “I think the shopper is buying more pieces than outfits, with certain exceptions of course. And that is what my retailers are looking for.”
The high-end customer is still buying, “and price is not an issue if it is something other than what they already have,” she said. Nogg has had success with a cashmere wrap in fun colors, while black has been the weakest seller. “Everybody already has a black cashmere,” she explained.
As part of her presentation in Window, Nogg will be showing Vitamina, an Italian stretch denim and twill collection. “It is very directional in look, but fits a grown-up. It has moderate rises,” she said, as opposed to the low-rise style now in vogue for young women.
Nogg is not alone in thinking there is a shortage of offerings for adult women who want to be fashionable but maintain their own comfortable style.
Exclusively Misook, a New York-based design firm that will be on display in thegallery, a juried exhibit area for better sportswear and dresses from branded companies, is introducing Soos by Misook. Sales representative Shareda Singh described it as a knit line with a youthful edge that can appeal to women from 20 to 60. “We cater to a more misses’ customer, and what we heard is she wanted something younger.” Soos offers a scope of items including shells, pullovers, skirts, pants and dresses with wholesale prices of $60 to $129.
International Women’s Apparel, a company based in Easton, Pa., will be in thegallery section showing Eye, a new shirt and blouse line made from European cottons and other expensive fabrics that wholesales from $59 to $99. Items are detailed with color-contrasting cuffs and collars and use mother-of-pearl and crystal buttons. “It is all about the intricacies of making the shirt come alive when you wear it,” said Gary Furey, director of sales. “The line is designed with a modern fit versus a misses’ fit, for a customer who wants something market-driven, but not necessarily young.”
Reichman said New Frontier, a suede line he is showing, offers a shirt jacket with burnout treatments in vegetable colors like brown, orange and beige for spring. The style is “a little more cropped and a little younger looking.”
Meanwhile, Michael Gae, owner of Rep et Trois of Los Angeles, will be bringing to Window four novelty top lines with contemporary leanings, along with Suzi Roher, a belt collection from Canada.
More and more, he said, better sportswear means a different thing to markets around the country. “In the Midwest it might be Liz [Claiborne],” said Gae, “while in California it becomes more Pink Poodle by Kellwood.”
Although optimistic, Gae declined to make any sales projections for these lines at WWDMAGIC.
Instead, he quipped: “Everyone goes to Vegas hoping to win — whether it’s gambling, business or pleasure.”