Somali-Ethiopian, Parisian designer Olivier Rousteing became the youngest-ever head of a French maison when he took the helm as creative director of Balmain in 2011, at age 25. Rousteing, who WWD called a “young and promising creative dynamo,” was also the first Black creative director at a European fashion house since Hylan Booker, who was appointed to reignite the House of Worth in London, and Jay Jaxon designed for the House of Jean-Louis Scherrer in the late 1960s. During his tenure, he has successfully re-established the codes of Balmain as part of the current zeitgeist and reintroduced its couture collections to a new generation of fashion followers and those in his Balmain Army. His designs have been worn by many, including Iman, Rihanna and Beyonce, who wore looks she and Rousteing co-created for her renowned Renaissance World Tour of 2023 and continues to collaborate with him on multiple projects. He has also partnered with Disney, Evian, H&M, Porsche, Puma and the Opera de Paris amongst others while leading Balmain Beauty into a new chapter.
WWD and the authors spoke to Olivier, for its first book “Black In Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence and Culture,” where he talked about his aspirations and many influences from Yves Saint Laurent, Willi Smith to the music of Destiny’s Child and his continued advocacy for visibility for a community that continues to be relevant for the future, he stated.“There will be a really strong movement in Black culture and Black excellency in the future, and people will be recognized because African culture is one of the most beautiful cultures of the world.”
Here is a look back at Rousteing’s remarkable evolution at Balmain, starting with his groundbreaking 2012 debut, from the Fairchild Archive and WWD.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing (R) prepares for his fall 2012 runway show on February 27, 2012, in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive Model Julie Frauche on the runway at Balmain’s fall 2012 show at Intercontinental Le Grand Hotel Paris.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive Model Daria Strokous on the runway at Balmain’s spring 2012 show at Intercontinental Le Grand Hotel Paris.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive A model on the runway at Balmain’s fall 2013 show at Salons de l’Hotel de Ville.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive A model on the runway at Balmain’s fall 2013 show at Salons de l’Hotel de Ville.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive Designer Olivier Rousteing on the runway after Balmain’s spring 2013 show at the Grand Hotel.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive Model Cindy Bruna on the runway at Balmain’s spring 2014 show at the Grand Hotel in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive Model Julie Frauche on the runway at Balmain’s spring 2014 show at the Grand Hotel in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive Model Joan Smalls on the runway at the Balmain Fall 2014 ready to wear runway show at Salons de l’Hôtel de Ville, Paris.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive A model on the runway at the Balmain fall 2014 show at Salons de l’Hôtel de Ville, Paris.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive A model on the runway at Balmain spring 2015 menswear show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD Olivier Rousteing and models walk the finale of the Balmain Spring 2019 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive Model Alessandra Ambrosio on the runway at Balmain spring 2015 menswear show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive A model on the runway at Balmain spring 2015 show at the Grand Hotel in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Fairchild Archive A model on the runway at Balmain spring 2015 show at the Grand Hotel in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD Kendall Jenner (4th in lineup) with models on the runway during the Balmain spring 2016 show finale in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD Kendall Jenner on the runway at the Balmain spring 2016 fashion show in Paris, France.
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Balmain Spring 2018 Menswear Runway Show
Image Credit: WWD Olivier Rousteing on the runway at Balmain spring 2018 show, Paris.
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Balmain Spring 2018 Menswear Runway Show
Image Credit: WWD Balmain spring 2018 menswear show, Paris.
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Balmain Spring 2018 Menswear Runway Show
Image Credit: WWD Balmain spring 2018 menswear runway show, Paris.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni Model Lais Ribeiro on the runway at the Balmain Spring 2017 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD A model on the runway at the Balmain Spring 2019 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Delphine Achard Indira Scott (L) and a model backstage at Balmain Spring 2019 ready to wear runway show in Paris on September 28, 2018.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD Cara Delevingne on the runway at the Balmain Spring 2019 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Swan Gallet/WWD Natasha Poly on the runway at the Balmain Spring 2019 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD A model on the runway at the Balmain Spring 2020 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni Model on the runway at the Balmain Spring 2020 menswear show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD Models on the runway at the Balmain Fall 2020 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Vanni Bassetti Designer Olivier Rousteing (C) poses with models in Balmain’s pre-fall 2021 ready to wear collection.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni Models on the runway at the Balmain spring 2021 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni Designer Olivier Rousteing walks the finale of the Balmain ready to wear spring 2024 held at Palais de Chaillot on September 27, 2023 in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni Model on the runway at Balmain ready to wear spring 2024 held at Palais de Chaillot on September 27, 2023 in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Dominique Maitre Model on the runway at the Balmain spring 2023 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Dominque Maitre Cher and designer Olivier Rousteing walk the finale of the Balmain spring 2023 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Sune Model on the runway at the Balmain spring 2022 tenth anniversary fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD Imaan Hammam on the runway at the Balmain spring 2022 tenth anniversary fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD Adut Akech, Olivier Rousteing, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Bruna, Natalia Vodianova, and models on the runway at the Balmain spring 2022 tenth anniversary fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD Precious Lee on the runway at the Balmain spring 2022 tenth anniversary fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD A model on the runway at the Balmain Fall 2023 ready to wear fashion show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: WWD Models backstage at the Balmain fall 2023 ready to wear runway show in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD Models backstage at the Balmain fall 2024 ready to wear fashion show at Pavillon Cambon in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni A model on the runway at the Balmain Spring 2024 ready to wear fashion show at the Pavillon Cambon in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni Model on the runway at Balmain fall 2024 menswear fashion show at the Grande Halle de la Villette in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni Naomi Campbell with designer Olivier Rousteing and models on the runway at Balmain fall 2024 menswear fashion show at the Grande Halle de la Villette in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD Models backstage at the Balmain spring 2025 ready to wear fashion show at Palais de Chaillot in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Swan Gallet/WWD Model Divine Mugisha on the runway at Balmain spring 2025 ready to wear fashion at the Palais de Chaillot in Paris, France.
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Balmain – Runway – Spring/Summer 2026 Paris Fashion Week
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni Model on the runway at the Balmain fashion show as part of Spring/Summer 2026 Paris Fashion Week held at Hotel InterContinental on October 01, 2025 in Paris, France.
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Olivier Rousteing: Inspiring a Cultural Renaissance in Fashion
Image Credit: Swan Gallet/WWD Designer Olivier Rousteing at the Balmain spring 2025 ready to wear runway show at Palais de Chaillot in Paris, France.