Designers entice buyers with looks that showcase the latest trends while keeping prices reined in.
If vendors in the women’s sportswear and dresses category want to keep Baby Boomers spending their money, they have to give them the quality, value and fresh styles that keep them coming back for more.
According to NPD Group, women spent $97 billion on apparel in 2005, and in 2006 the number could reach the $100 billion mark. But vendors know that to get their share of those dollars, they have to work hard to keep up in a constantly changing retail environment, dealing with problems ranging from import issues and consolidation to the mergers of major department stores like Federated and May Co. and the takeover of Saks Inc. For brands to stay afloat, they need to provide their customers with new merchandise and a good fit.
“For us, the major challenge is to continue to offer what we are known for, but to also stay fresh, new and on trend,” said Pat Brown, sales manager at the New York showroom of Tribal Sportswear Inc. “We have to stay true to who we are while offering newness to our customers. It’s not easy.”
For 30-year-old Tribal Sportswear Inc., newness came in the form of a line of sportswear to supplement other offerings.
“We became known as a great-fitting pants resource and then launched our full sportswear line about five years ago,” said Brown.
She added that at Tribal Sportswear’s upper-moderate price point, women are becoming more aware of the fashion trends of the moment and are always looking for more value for their dollars.
“We have to keep evolving and pushing the envelope,” she said. “A lot of times, that means offering more novelty, more for the money. It’s hard to keep costs down when you are putting so much novelty on the clothes. This customer wants the best look for the best price. That’s certainly a challenge.”
Montreal-based Tribal Sportswear Inc.’s line wholesales from $20 to $49.50.
Sigrid Olsen, designer of Liz Claiborne Inc.’s Sigrid Olsen brand, will come to WWDMAGIC with her better line, priced around $50 wholesale on average. She said that fall 2006 would be her third season with creative director Ellis Kruger, who joined the firm from Tocca, and that with his help, the line was better than ever.
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“It’s a true partnership,” she said, “and the fall line is a definite step up for us; it’s really modern and has a lot of new details. I think our customers will be really happy with this line.”
The focus is on new looks in the bridge sportswear area, as well. Those vendors attending WWDMAGIC this season believe that they have a lot to offer to enliven the category.
“This is the most-designed line in bridge, which will, in itself, bring a lot to the department,” said Fran Ornstein, vice president of sales and merchandising for the new Badgley Mischka Platinum line, which is making its first appearance at WWDMAGIC. “This line brings what Mark [Badgley] and James [Mischka] do to the bridge market. It’s their couture sensibility, but in a bridge format. When a woman buys something from this line, she is getting a Badgley Mischka piece for a lower price.”
Ornstein said that the line, which just entered the market last August, has already been picked up by Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s, as well as a select number of high-end specialty stores internationally. She said she hopes this first visit to WWDMAGIC will bring the line, priced wholesale from $110 to $750, to West Coast specialty shops.
Garfield Marks Design Group, with its Womyn, Garfield & Marks and i Alex lines, has been in the bridge market for years, said Nancy Jones, the company’s vice president of marketing and creative services.
“Population-wise, it’s a growing sector of the market,” she said. “These women are looking for trend-appropriate clothing with value. When I say value, I mean they want quality and fit. That’s what will make them buy.”
Jones said that since it sells primarily to specialty stores, the company isn’t affected by department store mergers and consolidations.
“We are expecting a great season,” she said. “We have a lot to offer with our three brands and think buyers will be happy with what they see at the show.”
According to Jones, Garfield & Marks is more a line of separates that work together compared to i Alex, which offers four basic strong fabrics and pieces in a wide range of colors.
The Womyn line wholesales from $17 to $150. Garfield & Marks is $78 to $200 and i Alex ranges from $92 to $150.
Laurie Ratner, national sales manager for Alberto Makali, New York, said she will return to the show this season with only the bridge line’s collection of tops, priced from $59 to $89 wholesale.
“We do really well with our novelty tops, so we decided to come with just that this time,” she said. “We are doing really well, better than we’ve ever done, in fact. We have a unique product with a misses’ fit, and the pieces are great for traveling and so easy to care for.”
Ratner said that her customer is bored with the basics and is trend-aware, so she is looking for a real reason to spend her money on new clothes.
“I think this customer is very item-driven. She isn’t looking to buy the full outfit, but instead would rather get a few great pieces,” she said. “In our line, nothing is plain. Everything has an element of novelty. It gives the customer a reason to spend.”
Ratner also stressed the importance of a good fit in attracting customers.
“The fit is cut for a modern American woman,” she said. “Once you have the right fit, you have the customer.”