NEW YORK — Henri Bendel has created a brave new world of lingerie.
Walking into the new, sprawling 6,500-square-foot lingerie department, which encompasses the entire third floor of the flagship here, is similar to the voyeuristic rush of watching a risqué cabaret show at the Lido or the Crazy Horse Saloon in Paris.
Bearing Bendel’s La Lingerie signage, some walls are etched with provocative sayings such as “Love for One,” “My House?,” “Sensual Warm Tease” or “Do You Like to Watch?,” while others are covered with motifs of lips and fishnet-covered thighs in cherry-cordial red. Even the dressing rooms are designed to entertain shoppers with amusing black stiletto heel fixtures. But the pièce de résistance is the main room at the center of the seven-room maze, a fantasy stage for S&M-inspired masked mannequins in various modes of undress, reclining and standing under neon lights and a huge vintage Viennese crystal chandelier.
Michael McCadden, president and chief executive officer of Bendel’s, a veteran of Priceline.com, Calvin Klein Inc., Coach and Gap, described the multimillion dollar lingerie redo as “one of the most exciting projects I have ever worked on.”
“Our goal was for our customer to say ‘Oh, wow! I never expected this,’” said McCadden. “When I joined Bendel’s six months ago, I sat down with the management team and asked, ‘Why don’t we have lingerie for our core customer?’ It was the number one request by customers. So it was logical to launch lingerie in a fairly big way.”
That’s exactly what Bendel’s has done with its first-ever department dedicated to a prodigious range of 30 intimate apparel brands. The third floor formerly housed designer ready-to-wear, which has since been relocated to the fourth level.
“Lingerie hasn’t really been in the store in a critical way for some time,” said McCadden, noting that the international flavor and diversity of the lingerie labels, primarily from little-known designers or luxe names from countries including France, England, Spain, Romania and Australia, gives Bendel’s a “competitive edge” at a time when major stores continue to sell basic, mainstream brands. A 400-square-foot area for the British line Agent Provocateur on the second floor was closed last March.
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“I see the Bendel’s brand as very glamorous, very sexy, very cosmopolitan and youthful, no matter what the age of the consumer,” continued McCadden. “Lingerie is suited to these four things, and in all ways, it’s a very logical category for Bendel’s. Since 1896, Henri Bendel very much had his hand on the pulse of what women wanted.”
McCadden compared the lingerie initiative to Bendel’s introduction of MAC cosmetics in the U.S. in 1989, saying, “We were called the legendary launchpad. I want the same start for lingerie at Bendel’s.”
In addition to the Henri Bendel name, the roster of brands includes Andres Sarda, Bodas, Carine Gibson, CourtWorth, Damaris, Diane von Furstenberg Boudoir, Eberjey, Ell & Cie, Emporiana, Esther Franklin, Fashino, Fifi Chachnil, Fleur T, Frankly Darling, Gentry de Paris, Huit, I.D. Sarrieri, John Galliano Lingerie, Kristina Ti, Leigh Bantivoglio, Little Joe by Gail Elliot, Miss Ruby, Pia Hallstrom, Princesse Tam Tam, Roberto Cavalli, Sarah Fisk, Spoylt, University, Valerie Goad, Vannina Vesperini, Verde Veronica, Verdissima and Yoba.
Bendel’s also has big plans to promote its lingerie business with a slew of trunk shows, which begin Friday through Dec. 31. A cocktail party for the media tonight was preceded by a champagne event for 500 of Bendel’s best customers Wednesday, he said.
McCadden would not give a sales projection for the new department, only saying the bestselling item since the department was unveiled Nov. 11 has been a mink-trimmed satin bra in black or white by Andre Sardas, which retails for $538.
However, if sister retail division Victoria’s Secret, which also is owned by parent Limited Brands, is any indication of the potential of lingerie at Bendel’s, lingerie could become a prolific business: Victoria’s Secret stores generate sales of $600 per square foot, according to Limited Brands’ 2003 annual report.