LOS ANGELES — It might be an American staple, but breaking into and conquering the increasingly tough denim market has become a challenge. And nowhere more so than in California, which boasts a legacy from Levi’s to Guess and has in recent years reignited the blues chorus with Earl, Seven and Juicy Couture. Forget about basic styles and great fit —that’s a given. Today, buyers and consumers demand ingenious sourcing, unique treatments, imaginative detailing and an even broader offering than just jeans. Here are a few brands ready to break out.
LIX
Founders: Sue Eaves, Patrick Eaves, Jennifer Yang.
Designer: Sue Eaves.
Notable Clients: Jennifer Lopez, Kim Cattrall, Brittany Murphy.
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Top Retail Accounts: Bergdorf Goodman, H. Lorenzo, Fred Segal.
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Price range: $54 miniskirt to $110 jacket.
2002 Retail Sales: $4.5 million.
Expected 2003 sales: $5.5 million.
Big Hit: Front-seamed jeans with signature western belt loop.
Concept: Styling contemporary denim and corduroy jeans, shirts and jackets in novelty fabrics and a broad color range. Up Next: A men’s line is in the works.
ROCK & REPUBLIC
Founders: Michael Ball, Andrea Bernholtz.
Designer: Michael Ball.
Notable Clients: Sarah Jessica Parker, Salma Hayek.
Top Retail Accounts: Bergdorf Goodman, H. Lorenzo, Fred Segal.
Price Range: $50 T-shirt to $220 jeans.
2002 Retail Sales: $2.4 million.
Expected 2003 Sales: $8.2 million.
Big Hit: Classic five-pocket jean.
Concept: Detail-oriented denim with a comfortable fit.
BLUE CULT
Founders and Designers: David Mechaly and Caroline Athias.
Notable Clients: Kate Hudson, Gwyneth Paltrow, Britney Spears.
Top Retail Accounts: Barneys New York, Lisa Kline and Ron Herman.
Price Range: $55 jeans to $110 jackets.
2002 Retail Sales: $12 million.
Expected 2003 sales: $30 million.
Big hit: The “Gwyneth” jeans, featuring a button front and two patch pockets.
Concept: Offering great fit for the teenager and her hip mom.
SERFONTAINE
Founders and Designers: Mik and Maria Serfontaine.
Notable Clients: Halle Berry, Julia Stiles, Alanis Morissette.
Top Retail Accounts: Scoop, Henri Bendel, Tracy Ross, Traffic.
Price range: $55 to $72.
2002 Retail Sales: $3 million.
Expected 2003 Sales: $6 million.
Big Hit: The low-rise “Easy Rider” that Britney wore on her last tour.
Concept: Creating an edgy fashion denim brand. Presently perfecting an organic wash using no chemicals.
BLUJEANIOUS
Founders: Robin O., David Sack.
Designer: Robin O.
Notable Clients: Meg Ryan, Jennifer Lopez, Pamela Anderson.
Top Retail Accounts: Barneys New York, Macy’s West, Bloomingdale’s.
Price Range: $50 miniskirt to $88 blazer.
2002 Sales: $4.5 million.
Expected 2003 Sales: $6 million.
Big Hit: Slim-fitting military pants in pigment-dyed sanded Bedford cord.
Concept: Appeal to baby boomers, using European stretch fabrics and unique details like a six-piece waistband that doesn’t gap.
Who’s Next
Less than a year into business, these denim lines are already gunning to be the next big blue thing out of Los Angeles.
HUDSON
Founders: Robin Chretien, Scott Drake, Peter Kim.Designer: Robin Chretien.Top Retail Accounts: Ron Herman and Kitson, Los Angeles; Bloomingdale’s.Price Range: $53 to $59, depending on style and wash.Concept: Body-conscious jeans with stylish detailing.
SADDLELITE JEANS
Founders/Designers: Daniel Green, Lukus Eichmann.Top Retail Accounts: Collette, Barneys New York, Fred Segal.Price Range: $80 to $100.Concept: Using Japanese denim, the teenage owners emphasize a shapely cut using quadruple stitching.
YANUK
Founders/Designers: Anouk Guez, Yael Torbati.Top Retail Accounts: Madison, Planet Blue, American Rag, Los Angeles.Price Range: $46 miniskirt to $65 jeans.Concept: A vintage-inspired line using unique washes and details, like a sixth pocket on classic jeans, and focus on fit.
OLIVER TWIST
Founder/Designer: Christopher Enuke.Top Retail Accounts: Fred Segal, Henry Lehr, Big Drops.Price Range: $75 jeans to $112 jackets.Concept: Designer denim with engineered details, like low-rise jeans with a star cut out and inset into its back pocket.