Like the old adage about waiting a long time for a bus only to have three show up at once, Dries Van Noten — nearly glacial in the past regarding store openings — has four in the cards this year.
The surge of expansion is headlined by fashion and beauty flagships opening in New York City and London, and beauty and accessories units debuting in Milan and Brussels.
In addition, the Hankyu department store in Osaka, Japan, will welcome Dries Van Noten fashions and the directly owned Dries Van Noten flagship in Tokyo’s Aoyama district will reopen after a full refurbishment.
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All the openings are scheduled for March and April, with the exception of Milan, which is expected in the third quarter of 2025.
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The developments arrive as Julian Klausner is gearing up for his runway debut March 5 as creative director of the Antwerp-based house, following the founder’s retirement from the runway.
However, as reported, Van Noten remains involved in the house, including the design of its stores.
“This is a commitment to enhance the brand presence and connect more in-depth with our customers worldwide,” Dries Van Noten president Axel Keller said in an exclusive interview. “It reflects our confidence in the brand and in our strategy to embrace new opportunities.”
The four new stores represent a nearly 50 percent increase in boutique addresses.
At present, Dries Van Noten counts eight retail stores including concessions and more than 400 wholesale accounts, representing more than 500 doors worldwide. The designer opened his first mainland China store in Shanghai, and his first U.S. store in Los Angeles in 2020, followed by a location in Chengdu, China, in 2022.
In 2023, it debuted a new retail concept at No. 9 Quai Malaquais in Paris that showcases beauty products alongside leather goods, jewelry and other accessories.
For that project, Van Noten himself selected a 17th-century tapestry by Dutch architect and artist Hans Vredeman de Vries, and a chandelier composed of different kinds of Venini glass.
“When I approach such projects, I think about how each element works together, much like furnishing a home,” the designer explained in an interview. “It’s about creating a space that feels cohesive and inviting.”
Keller declined to give precise figures, but said directly owned retail contributes a “relevant percentage” of the company’s revenues.
“We recognize the importance of this channel and are determined to expand it further in the coming years,” he said. “Looking ahead, we expect to maintain a steady cadence of new retail openings.”
He described a “thoughtful approach to expansion, ensuring that each new store adds something and aligns with our brand values and vision.”
Dries Van Noten foreshadowed its London opening with a takeover of the 14 main windows at Selfridges, which wound up Monday and trumpeted a new 750-square-foot corner devoted to the brand on the department store’s second floor showcasing men’s and women’s collections.
A London boutique arrives with directly owned stores in New York and Milan, too, underscoring that the company “sees tremendous potential in these fashion capitals, as they allow us to engage with a diverse clientele and showcase the essence of our house,” Keller said. “Each city we chose for our new boutiques has a unique fashion identity and a vibrant cultural scene.”
He noted that the brand is planning a opening events and activations to inaugurate the new addresses. “Our goal is to create memorable experiences that connect our community with the spirit of Dries Van Noten.”
He also noted that “our experience shows that opening direct retail strengthens the overall business also for our valued wholesale partnerships.”
The store in New York is located at 168 Mercer Street; in London at 21 Hanover Square; in Brussels at 89 Rue Antoine Dansaert; in Tokyo at 5-5-4 Minami Aoyama, and in Milan at 11 Via Brera.
“Each location is unique, emphasizing the importance of honoring the character and culture of the city, as well as the architecture of the space,” Van Noten said in the interview. “The goal was to create spaces that feel authentic to the brand and deeply connected to their surroundings, allowing each place to tell its own story while remaining part of a larger narrative.”
Van Noten said he aims to create “an inviting and inspiring atmosphere for all visitors, whether they are newcomers or loyal devotees. The experience should encourage curiosity and engagement, guiding them through our story.
“For both Julian and I, it is important that everyone leaves feeling connected to our brand,” he added. “These stores are a continuation of our story; they have reflected the brand’s identity for decades and now they are set to unveil Julian’s collection.”
Klausner, who has worked at Dries Van Noten since 2018, was part of the studio that designed the spring 2025 collection that will debut in the new London and New York boutiques, though his fall 2025 effort marks his official debut.
“These new stores represent the heritage of the brand and Dries Van Noten’s strong DNA,” Klausner commented. “Our stores are truly unique. I am proud that my collections will reside in these spaces. It was essential for us to ensure that these locations honor both the past and the future.”
The brand’s initial retail expansion, plus its entry into fragrances and lipsticks, came to fruition after the founding designer sold a majority stake in his namesake house to Puig, the Spanish beauty and fashion group, in 2018.
The brand also fortified management with the 2021 hire of Keller, entered e-commerce, and initiated a retail expansion.
“We are committed to the house and to enhancing its presence on the market,” said José Manuel Albesa, beauty and fashion president at Puig. “Looking ahead, the long-term potential appears strong, with opportunities for growth through expanded retail partnerships, new market entries, and the introduction of innovative collections under Julian Klausner’s direction that reflect the evolving fashion landscape.”
The founder said he has “complete confidence” in his successor, a “talented designer” and the “clear choice” to take over following his exit. “His deep understanding of the brand and its values will ensure a seamless transition and a bright future,” Van Noten commented last December when Klausner’s appointment was made official.
Albesa said the “brand’s dedication to artistic craftsmanship continues to resonate with consumers, contributing to a loyal follower base.”
Some might find the sudden acceleration in business development surprising, coming less than a year after the founder stepped down.
“Dries’ departure was felt by everyone in the company,” Keller acknowledged. “But we are confident in the strong team and the solid foundation that has been established over 40 years. Our shared vision of the brand’s core principles ensure that we will continue to thrive and innovate.”
He hinted at “several development initiatives in the pipeline for 2025,” including brand extensions and collaborations, and to other “exciting plans” to reach new customers and markets.
Echoing Albesa, Keller called the current momentum of the brand “incredibly encouraging. We’ve seen a positive response to our latest collections across all categories, resonating well with our audience.”
In reporting its 2024 results, Puig cited exceptional momentum across its fragrance and fashion activities, which generated 3.54 billion euros, advancing 13.6 percent both on a reported basis and at constant perimeters.
It noted that all of its niche perfume brands, which count L’Artisan Parfumeur, Penhaligon’s and Dries Van Noten among them, posted double-digit sales rises.
One of the original Antwerp Six that put a small Belgian town on the international fashion map, Van Noten came from a family of tailors and launched his label with menswear in 1986.
He established his flagship, known as Het Modepaleis and located on the site of a historic department store, in his hometown in 1989. It remains a destination today for disciples of his dignified and wearable clothes, tinged with lavish color and exotic details.
“Opening our own stores in key cities is something we’ve worked toward for a long time,” Van Noten said. “It is important for us to create spaces that tell a story and evoke a sense of warmth and connection with the local culture. This isn’t just about opening another shop because of its influential location, it is essential that these stores truly reflect the DNA of the brand.”