A trend presentation for spring 2014 by Mayouri Sengchanh of Carlin International got off to an interesting start.
The event Tuesday evening at the St. Giles Hotel in Manhattan, which was sponsored by The Underfashion Club, began with a cocktail reception that included up-and-coming designers in the intimates field. One of the new designers was Vanessa Martin, who maintains an independent design firm in New York. She met privately with the organization’s officials and Eurovet executives to reaffirm a trip she had won in a raffle in December at a UFC party. The trip was for Martin to attend the Mode City trade fair in Paris, which was sponsored by Eurovet. But the voyage was “canceled by a p.r. person for Eurovet shortly before the trip, and a lot of people were angry,” said a UFC member who did not want to be named.
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“We were told Martin did not have enough credentials,” said another UFC member.
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Martin acknowledged that her “dream trip” had been canceled, but said she was “happy with the meeting.”
“It all works out in the end.…I was told that I will now be going to the January show [Salon International de la Lingerie] in Paris,” said Martin.
Asked why Martin’s trip had been canceled, Pierre-Nicolas Hurstel, an executive with U.S.-based trade show organizer CurvExpo, a unit of Eurovet, said the “cancelation was due to a misunderstanding regarding the organization of the trip.”
“It never has been a question of canceling the prize won in the raffle,” explained Hurstel.
Meanwhile, after a cordial agreement had been reached between the two organizations, 100 executives of the innerwear and textile industries filed into a conference room to view an audio-video presentation by Sengchanh of Paris-based Carlin.
She gave an overview of spring trends for 2013 that were showcased at Mode City in July as well as a preview of spring 2014.
Top ideas for 2013 include nature and aromatherapy influences in leafy greens, beautiful handmade materials in off-white and beige, and a “circus of fashion” inspired by the theatre and doll-like looks in pastels.
Bright colors are a big story for 2013 with bold shades of orange — from melon, papaya and Mandarin — which will be important in intimates and swimwear, said Sengchanh, as images of several brands popped up on screen such as Empreinte, Huit, Lou and Nicole Olivier.
A broad range of blues, from indigo to violet and deep purples, will be key with brands like Insensée, Parah and Implicite, while body jewelry treatments that adorn necklines will be strong with brands like Maison Close, Despi and Gideon Oberson.
A key silhouette will be a trikini at fashion labels Chantal Thomass and ID Sarrieri.
Spring 2014 will focus on a lot of “retro girly looks,” said Sengchanh, as she outlined five themes:
• Complicite, a range of bucolic florals in shades of coral, lemon yellow, fuchsia and pale pink in natural materials including cotton. Top silhouettes include lots of corsetry, high-waist shaping briefs, and bandeau tops.
• Panamorama, a palette of “sexy deep blues” accented with orange, off-white and navy in lightweight polyester and microfibers that have matte-and-shine effects. Shapes are athletic-inspired with a focus on vertical front treatments and halter-neck styles.
• Incarnation, a group of “tribal, voodoo inspirations” in earth tones in copper and terra-cotta juxtaposed against jade green and aquamarine. There also are updated, contemporary looking zebra-stripe prints and luxe Guipure laces with Lurex. Here, halter-neck styles predominate.
• Exuberance, a fresh mix of tropical florals with Baroque accents and “highly exotic colors like vegetable greens, yummie fruit shades and Flamingo pink.” Shapewear will be an important category with an evolution of lacing with elastic bands and 3-D effects.
• Confidential, a focus on the macrotrend of well-being illustrated through purples, blues and orange as well as colorblocking in silks and satins.
“Confidential will feature chic loungewear and crossover styles such as jumpsuits and halter-neck nighties with piping and faux pockets,” said Sengchanh.