PARIS — Representatives from the artisanal backbone of France”s luxury sector — food to fashion — gathered under the vaulted roof of the Grand Palais last week to mark a new government initiative: “Entreprises du Patrimoine Vivants” or “Businesses of National Heritage.”
The new designation, along the lines of Champagne and haute couture, is intended to boost the country”s rich craftsmanship. Some 267 companies have so far been attached to the label, which was conceived by Renaud Dutreil, French minister for small business and enterprise.
“We know that the global consumer likes French product for its uniqueness and innovation, so it”s imperative that we help artisans to grow without losing their souls,” said Dutreil, noting that the label grants members various tax relief benefits in areas such as training programs and research and development.
“With globalization, Europe is not made for mass-production. We have to pull on the past to propel creativity into the future,” said embroiderer François Lesage, who has been granted the designation.
After companies apply for the designation, a national board of commissioners makes the selection based on criteria such as the rarity of a firm”s technique.
Many hope the prestige of the government label will encourage businesses.
“Thanks to schemes like this, that will hopefully resuscitate desire among the young, I know I have eternity in front of me,” said bootmaker Raymond Massaro, whose family business was founded in 1894. Massaro, who was 18 when he first entered the company, has signed a deal with Chanel to hand over the business should he be left with no successor.
“I see it as allowing us to build a community of excellence,” said Elisabeth Ponsolle des Portes, president of the luxury goods association Comite Colbert which represents 68 members, of which 25 have been given the designation. “At a time where we”re questioning which industries to keep, it”s essential to support [this field] as it represents high added value.” said Ponsolle des Portes.
Actress Marisa Berenson was also in the crowd, wearing a glistening embroidered Dior trench to mark the occasion. “M. Lesage made all those incredible embroideries for my grandmother, Elsa Schiaparelli,” Berenson said. “France has such an amazing quality of workmanship that it has to be maintained.”
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Many believe that the appellation is likely to resonate mostly within French industries.
“I don”t think the significance of the label will reach the consumers, especially abroad,” commented Guillaume De Seynes, executive vice president of Hermès. “But France is rich with so many niche artisans who have a difficult time recruiting youngsters so it will be of great importance for them,” he said, citing the Hermès-owned silversmith Puiforcat and glove-maker Ganterie de Saint-Julien.