NEW YORK — Do glycolic peels appeal to the average Wal-Mart shopper?
L’Oréal Paris is about to find out as its new antiaging glycolic peel kit called ReNoviste hits drugstore, grocery and mass retail shelves. The three-step kit costs $24.99. But the steep price isn’t stopping retailers, such as Walgreens, CVS, Brooks Pharmacy and Medic Drug, from adding it to their bulging skin care departments.
Buyers from leading mass-market chains said consumers have been educated about cosmetic procedures, like peels, and are willing to tackle the process at home. “The timing is very good,” said a buyer with a top drugstore chain.
According to statistics provided by L’Oréal, there has been a 471 percent increase in nonsurgical procedures since 1997. In 2003, more than 6.4 million women underwent a professional nonsurgical cosmetic procedure, such as a chemical peel, microdermabrasion or injections.
ReNoviste Anti-Aging Glycolic Peel Kit is formulated with a Biosaccharide Complex and contains 10 percent glycolic acids. L’Oréal turned to dermatologist Lydia Evans for advice on bringing a professional-grade treatment to the mass market. Evans also worked with L’Oréal on the ReFinish MicroDermabrasion Kit that has already hit sales of $8.2 million in food, drugstore and mass channel units, excluding Wal-Mart, according to Information Resources Inc. “Now we’ve harnessed the power of a glycolic peel in a formula and system that’s effective and safe for at-home use,” she said in a statement.
The first step is the actual peel that removes dead cells. Ampoules deliver the solution to ensure the right amount is applied. The next step is the post-peel neutralizer made with Phytophenol to soothe the skin and vitamin B5 to replenish the skin with moisture. The final step is a rebalancing moisturizer with an Amino Acid Complex to hydrate skin.
According to directions, the peel can be used up to two times per week on nonconsecutive days. In total, the process requires less than five minutes to apply. The kit provides a one-month supply.
The company said the immediate results include brighter and more resilient skin as well as a reduction in pore size. The kit is designed to enhance skin’s production of collagen after a month so that skin appears to look younger. Also, the peel is said to reduce surface wrinkles. In L’Oréal’s consumer tests, 96 percent of women who used it reported smoother skin, 94 percent brighter skin and 92 percent healthier-looking skin.
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Industry sources forecast ReNoviste could reap first-year sales of $20 million.
L’Oréal isn’t the first to market a peel product to the mass channel. Vita-K Solution also has introduced an at-home chemical peel kit, and Neutrogena launched its Advanced Solutions Facial Peel last year. That product, however, is not a multistep kit.
Retailers report promising sales of higher-end skin care products. Walgreens chief executive officer Dave Bernauer called antiaging products among the most promising for the future. Items such as Avène and Vichy are performing up to expectations at chains such as Brooks Pharmacy, Duane Reade and CVS. A few chain executives did voice concern over high price points. To that end, some places such as Medic Drug plan to sell the higher-ticket items in select stores. Retailers are also looking into promotional money programs to encourage sales associates to encourage the sale of these kits.
Skin care sales rose 2 percent for the 52-week period ended Dec. 26 in food, drug and mass stores, excluding Wal-Mart, to $262 million, according to IRI. Olay facial moisturizers are the top sellers with a volume of $43.4 million. That was followed by Olay Complete and Ponds facial moisturizers. What’s notable, however, is that the top three brands all lost sales, while newcomers such as Dove Essential Nutrients and Neutrogena Healthy Defense gained ground — statistics that suggest women aren’t satisfied with the status quo and are searching for new skin care items promising the elusive fountain of youth.