Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Pure Brewed Protein pique composition: 100 percent Brewed Protein fiber, produced by A-girls. Credit: Spiber Inc.
Spiber
Spiber is making its Milano Unica debut.
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The Japanese biotechnology startup unveiled over 20 newly developed woven suiting fabrics created in collaboration with Japanese fiber distributor Takisada-Nagoya, will be on display. Takisada-Nagoya is based in Aichi prefecture and is well known for its in-house textile developments—specifically wool—and supplies to premium and mass-market global brands.
The collection features a range of blends—10-50 percent Brewed Protein fiber and other materials, such as wool or polyester—ideal for suits and jackets.
“Brewed Protein fiber is highly appealing for its fine diameter, excellent compatibility with worsted fabrics, and its ability to deliver an unparalleled sense of luxury and superior texture. Suit fabrics made with Brewed Protein fibers not only embody sustainability but also feature a unique sheen and luxurious feel, setting them apart from traditional materials like silk or cashmere,” Ryuichi Tanaka, a menswear manager at Takisada-Nagoya, said. “Recognizing the potential to redefine value in the declining global suit market, we embarked on this initiative to create and promote innovative suit fabrics. Looking ahead, we plan to leverage our global production strengths to explore broader applications for material development beyond suits.”
Spiber also showcased 40 Brewed Protein blended fabrics, with Brewed Protein fiber content ranging from 6 to 100 percent. This set of fabrics was made in partnership with A-girls, a Japanese textile manufacturer based in Wakayama prefecture known for its circular-knit production and artisanal craftsmanship. Since beginning its collaboration with Spiber in 2023, A-girls has produced about 120 textile designs.
“Brewed Protein fiber can be compared to a new seasoning in cooking—one that has the potential to transform the dish itself. It is a groundbreaking material that stimulates the creativity of developers, offering the possibility of realizing projects beyond our imagination. Additionally, there is great joy in developing fabrics that are closer to human skin than any material previously available,” said Tomohiro Yamashita, president of A-Girls. “As a manufacturing company, aiming to eliminate waste and reduce the burden on natural resources and animals aligns perfectly with our philosophy. The unique creativity and cutting-edge development technology that Spiber possesses are indispensable for the future. We have high expectations for Spiber to drive technological innovation not only in the textile field but also in new areas such as medicine and food.”
Manteco
Italian textile company specializing in sustainable luxury fabrics, Manteco, announced its circular fashion collaboration technology ahead of Milano Unica.
“When you draw a circle, you never take your pen off the paper. It’s a simple gesture, a circular line where you can’t tell the beginning from the end. Bringing garments back to life, recreating a piece of clothing with no cuts and seams and reducing waste to none, this is what they call sustainability, zero-waste approach, circularity,” an omnipresent voice in a video promoting the collaboration said. “We call it revolution, avant-garde, vision.”
The collaborators—Shima Seiki Italia and designer Arman Avetikyan as well as Manteco—created CircularKnit: a zero-waste knitwear garment designed and made in Tuscany, Italy, that is 100 percent recycled and 100 percent recyclable.
“It’s a revolution because Manteco’s expertise in 100 percent regenerated raw materials give wool a new life, creating a yarn that embodies the promise of sustainability. It’s avant-garde because Shima Seiki’s groundbreaking Wholegarment technology redefined what’s possible, enabling garments to be crafted directly form yarn without cutting or sewing, reducing material waste to zero,” the video said. “It’s visionary because Arman Avetikyan, the Compasso d’Oro-nominated creative director, reimagined circularity, turning innovative design concepts into wearable pieces that blend artistry and functionality.”
The garment is made with Manteco’s MWool yarn: a next-generation reduced impact wool made with mechanically recycled pre-and post-consumer waste. Compared to generic (virgin) wool fibers, MWool reduces climate change impact by 99.2 percent, water use by 99.9 percent and total energy consumption by 93.3 percent. With these reductions verified by peer-reviewed life cycle assessments and certifications, the industry is a fan of MWool; Textile Exchange awarded Manteco with the prestigious “Climate Project of the Year” award in November while the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s 2023 Sustainable Fashion Awards honored Manteco with the Climate Action Award in 2023.
The mono-material was made seamless, thanks to Shima Seiki’s Wholegarment technology, as the products are knit in three dimensions. Using Shima Seiki’s tech, the pieces are knitted directly from yarn—without cutting, sewing or leaving leftovers. This production method, Manteco said, ensures that each garment is crafted without waste.
“We combined Manteco’s sustainable yarn, Shima Seiki’s pioneering processes and Arman’s artistry to craft something new; something we didn’t have before,” the voice in the video said. “When you draw a circle, you always keep your pen on the paper. Today, when we bring a garment to life, we always close the loop.”
Chargeurs
Chargeurs PCC and the Istituto Marangoni Firenze joined forces to bolster creativity among young fashion designers.
Their joint project, “Recoding the Shirt,” saw 20 of the fashion design school’s students explore the construction of a shirt as it pertains to how the fabric and the interlining interact, the manufacturer of interlinings and interior garments components said. Considering Chargeurs acquired the Brennet brand over the summer, the Swiss shirtmaker supplied the fabrics and announced a relaunch plan to serve the new consumer better.
“At Chargeurs PCC, we believe in the new generations: they offer an opportunity to innovate and stimulate the research and development activity that has always distinguished our company as a pioneer in its sector,” Gianluca Tanzi, president and CEO of Chargeurs, said. “We have chosen to have the students work on Brennet shirt fabrics focusing on performance, high quality and comfort—peculiar characteristics of this brand.”
Chargeurs’ partnership with Istituto Marangoni Firenze launched last academic year—along with the creation of the company’s academy, an “initiative aimed at training future professionals in the textile and clothing sector,” the group said. The students were tasked with creating one-off pieces expressing the dynamism of the fabric and the structural qualities of interlinings, in an effort to combine both innovation and vision.
“The renewal of this partnership with Chargeurs PCC for a second year, of which we are proud, confirms the school’s commitment to establishing strategic connections with leading industry players,” Francesca Giulia Tavanti, director of education of Istituto Marangoni Firenze, said. “This project provides our students with the opportunity to engage with the evolution of tailoring, experimenting with new interpretations of men’s shirt codes through an innovative and creative approach.”
Alliance for European Flax Linen & Hemp
The Alliance for European Flax Linen and Hemp is updating its approach.
The representee agro-industrial organization for the textile sector announced its 2025 action plan for Italy’s fashion and home markets this week during Milano Unica.
While the alliance previously focused on promoting transparency through its two origin traceability certifications, Masters of Linen and European Flax, the organization’s now-holistic strategy will also address “the socio-environmental issues and regulations required to meet the challenge of the sustainable transition and to achieve its stated objective of making Europe’s flax-linen and hemp the preferred sustainable fibers around the world.”
Broken into five steps, the 2025 action plan covers changes to those certifications as well as the roll-out of a digital traceability platform. Following three years of experimentation, the alliance unveils the co-developed solution, which will be available to brands and retailers with “Masters of” certifications starting in May. Also covered was the group’s commitment to several environmental projects, a sourcing platform and a continued commitment to scientific data development and calculations.
“The deployment of these five projects is supported by the involvement of a 100 percent European agro-industrial value chain,” per the release. “The Alliance draws on an operational methodology that is both proactive and decompartmentalized: the establishment of working groups that bring together different companies, teams and outside expertise, followed by experimentation and testing under real-life conditions with pilot companies.”
