Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering what’s changing in how fashion is made, scaled or engineered from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Ocean Recherche
Ocean Recherche is promoting marine biomass as its preferred feedstock for fashion and design, supplying a portfolio of materials sourced from ocean resources.
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“I couldn’t find the next-gen materials that met designers’ expectations and could scale—so I studied the science to build them,” founder Eugène Riconneaus said.
The company is developing what it describes as marine biomass–based textile and material solutions intended for use across fashion, interiors and industrial design. Its biomass-made “SeiShell” leather alternative and “SeiYarn” fiber are the research and development center’s inaugural sea-sourced solutions.
Based in Paris, the company focuses on converting ocean-derived materials into fibers and surfaces that meet commercial design standards. Its current production capacity is about 510,000 linear meters, with 7,000 linear meters preordered.
Ocean Recherche positions its materials within the wider movement toward regenerative, biobased inputs. The company has presented its work through exhibitions and design collaborations, situating itself at the intersection of marine innovation and material research rather than as a traditional textile mill.
Digital Brands Group x University of Colorado
Upstart fashion house Digital Brands Group (DBGI) is expanding its push into the college Name, Image and Likeness (NIL) market, launching its AVO apparel line at the University of Colorado.
Under the program, a portion of each purchase will support University of Colorado student athletes through contributions to the school’s NIL fund, aligning the brand with the evolving athlete compensation model reshaping collegiate sports.
“We are committed to our strategic initiative to aggressively expand AVO’s presence in the Name, Image and Likeness college apparel sector,” said Hil Davis, chief executive officer of Digital Brands Group.
The company pointed to Grand View Research estimates that the global licensed sports merchandise market was valued at $36.4 billion in 2024 and is projected to reach $49 billion by 2030. The Colorado rollout is one of several product launches and partnerships the company said are planned in the coming months as it builds scale in NIL-linked collegiate apparel.
DBGI did not disclose projected revenue contribution from the partnership or specific financial terms tied to the NIL fund contributions.
Chulalongkorn University
A researcher from Chulalongkorn University in Bangkok has developed what is being described as Thailand’s first woven textile fiber made from discarded durian peels, turning a major agricultural waste stream into a potentially high-value sustainable material.
Dr. Usa Prachakul, a doctoral graduate in fashion and textiles, led the project over three years, extracting natural cellulose from durian peels—which contain up to about 30 percent cellulose and have mechanical properties similar to cotton and hemp—to produce fiber suitable for weaving.
The resulting fabrics have higher air permeability than pure silk and exhibit near-100 percent antibacterial performance without chemical treatments, according to lab tests cited by the university.
Usa said the work grew out of repeated experimentation after early attempts produced brittle, unusable fiber.
“In the beginning, we dried the durian peels, then boiled and dried them until fibers were produced,” she said. “But the resulting fibers were brittle and stiff, making them unusable.”
The innovation has won multiple awards, including the Outstanding Award in the National Higher Education Innovation Contest and the Excellence Award at the 24th International FABI Fashion Exhibition in South Korea.
The project is pitched as both an environmental solution and an economic opportunity, offering an alternative waste management to open burning or landfilling—which generates an estimated 146 million kilograms of durian peel waste annually in Thailand—and potentially providing new income streams for farming regions.
Bemberg
Asahi Kasei resumed Bemberg production at its Nobeoka, Japan, facility last month, nearly four years after a partial shutdown following an April 2022 incident.
The Nobeoka plant is the sole production site for Bemberg, the trade name for cupro, a regenerated cellulose fiber made from cotton linters. Output will gradually resume in restored sections of the facility after investments to increase and strengthen operations.
“Restoring production is a crucial milestone,” said Kaoru Hashimoto, Bemberg senior general manager. “Together with our stakeholders we remain committed to contributing to the development of a responsible and future-oriented business.”
The restart represents a significant supply shift for this niche yet widely specified fiber, which accounts for about 0.02 percent of global fiber production, according to the company. Bemberg is produced in Japan from cotton linters, a pre-consumer byproduct of cottonseed oil, using a traceable closed-loop process. The material holds RCS, OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and ISO 14001 certifications and has received TÜV Austria’s marine biodegradability certification.
With production resuming, Asahi Kasei is progressing its Spring/Summer 2027 program, positioning Bemberg around “everyday comfort” and moisture management as fashion trends move toward next-to-skin performance.
Timed to trade fairs like Milano Unica and Première Vision, the SS27 rollout spans a European partner network, showcasing 100 percent Bemberg crepe interlocks, silk-Bemberg satins and voiles, stretch constructions blending Bemberg with elastane, and knit developments designed for the jersey and activewear markets.
Nikwax
Nikwax is partnering with technical marine apparel brand Gill Marine to bring PFAS-free, durable water-repellent technology to ocean gear.
Gill has integrated Nikwax’s factory-applied Direct.Dry DWR into its updated OS1 Ocean System, marking the first time the treatment has been used in marine apparel. The move adds a PFAS-free water-repellent finish to Gill’s flagship offshore range.
Direct.Dry achieves the highest rating on the AATCC 22 spray test and is designed to maintain durability through repeated washing. Garments treated with the finish can be renewed using Nikwax aftercare products.
The technology has previously appeared on outdoor apparel, including styles from Outdoor Research, but had not yet been adopted in the marine category.
“Gill has a reputation of being a leader in creating waterproof systems for harsh, ocean adventure,” said Brian Davidson, CEO of Nikwax. “Nikwax Direct.Dry DWR delivers dependable water repellency and can be renewed with our aftercare products, ensuring the garments last longer.”
Gill’s OS1 Ocean System is positioned as its most advanced offshore range to date. The brand said it combined in-house lab testing with more than 5,000 miles of Arctic sailing validation conducted by Matt and Amy Humphreys of the YouTube channel Sailing Yacht Florence.
“In the Arctic, the real challenge is the wind chill coming off ice and glaciers,” said Matt Humphreys. “We wore the OS1 constantly and never had to dry out our mid or base layers. When the outer layer got wet, we shook it off and let it dry in the cockpit. That tells you everything about how well it performed.”
Ripl Efek
Ripl Efek, a California-based home-care startup launched in 2025, is positioning laundry detergent as a “skin-first” category.
Founded by Shawnique Alexander, the brand markets enzyme-powered formulas designed to treat fabrics with the same care typically reserved for skin care, emphasizing skin-barrier protection and avoiding harsh chemicals and synthetic fragrances.
The line currently centers on two core products. The first is a laundry detergent offered unscented or in the brand’s signature fragrance. The second is a refill system built around a patented stainless-steel canister intended to eliminate plastic contact and reduce packaging waste.
According to the company, key actives in the detergent include algae oil to smooth fibers and Sensityl to support sensitive skin.
Conceptualized and formulated in the United States, Ripl Efek is entering a growing segment of premium home-care brands that blend wellness positioning with refill infrastructure and aesthetic-first packaging. Ripl Efek’s website and product information do not currently disclose manufacturing location, production capacity or recognized third-party environmental certifications.
Toray Industries
Technology and advanced materials firm Toray Industries has developed a proprietary technology to produce biobased 2-pyrrolidone—a raw material in its polyamide 4 that serves as a building block for various chemicals—which reportedly delivers excellent biodegradability in marine environments, among others, while addressing microplastic issues, according to the Tokyo-based business.
“In recent years, ocean discharges of microplastics from cosmetics and facial cleansers have become a key environmental issue, prompting various countries to restrict their use,” the company said in a statement. “Toray set about developing and launching polyamide 4 in response to this situation.”
Toray shared plans to use this technology to verify the scale-up of biobased polyamide 4, with a view to offering it by the fiscal year ending March 2029, mainly for microparticles in cosmetics.
“It’s also worth noting that reactions are milder than those of regular petrochemical processes,” the company said. “Toray’s breakthrough should help lower carbon dioxide emissions across the value chain, from raw materials through polyamide 4 microparticle production.”
