Designers revealed what’s ahead for Spring/Summer 2026 denim during men’s fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. While themes like heritage and quiet luxury lingered faintly in the background, the spotlight belonged to expressive styles. Padded jeans from Hed Mayner, fringe-like frayed hems from Ambush and shredded jackets from were just a few of the bold choices.
Denim was central to Juun.J’s twisted constructions. Garments peeled away from the body, while others featured pairs of jeans attached at the hip. Vintage washes and workwear-inspired details like hammer loops and strong seams kept the looks cohesive.
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From acid washes to patchwork, Junya Watanabe kept denim interesting by using a multitude of finishing techniques. Jeans with twisted seams, pleating, high waists and deep contrasting cuffs laid the foundation to looks that include damask blazers and shirts featuring paintings by Edvard Munch and Elizabeth Peyton.
Jeans with multiple stacked waistbands continued to trend. Through logo belt buckles and patches, the bold silhouette provided unique branding opportunities for AWGE, 3.Paradis and Ambush. Repeated seams added interest to Feng Chen Wang’s light-wash jeans and denim jacket.
Boho embroidery was prominent in collections by Just Cavalli, Amiri and Bluemarble. Isabel Marant opted for faded printed florals on jackets and imperfect pinstripes on jeans. Doodle-like drawings and appliques decorated Kid Super’s jeans.
Jean shorts were worn wide and loose. Camperlab’s first runway show included heavily distressed shorts. EgonLab played with seam details and pocket placement. Ami kept jeans chic and fluid with an inky wash and wide pleats.
Brown is the new indigo, according to Pharrell Williams, Louis Vuitton Men’s creative director. In a collection that celebrated Indian satorialism and dandy spirit, the French house delivered mix of utilitarian silhouettes (zip-up boiler suits) and denim coordinates. Coffee brown denim that was woven—not dyed—and purple-indigo casts were prominent. Safari-themed embroideries decorated a denim jacket and jeans as a nod to the brand’s roots in travel.
Doublet leaned into dirty tints, while EgonLab showed rust-colored overdyed jeans with an oily finish.
