Tilmann Wröbel may dislike the word “trend,” but in his line of work, it’s impossible to avoid. As the founder of the denim consultancy Monsieur-T, Wröbel took the stage at Munich’s Bluezone trade show last week to present what he called four major denim “shifts.” These emerging movements, driven largely by youth culture, reflect a stark departure from the dominant quiet luxury and size inclusive mindsets of just a few years ago.
These shifts are also likely to linger for longer than the post-pandemic fashion cores that burnt out as fast as they flared up on social media feeds and fast-fashion shelves. Wröbel emphasized how these rapid-fire trends have led brands to chase after a wider variety of fits. However, basics continue to be their bestsellers.
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Denim’s contradictory state is evident across Wröbel’s denim shifts.
Despite millennials’ push for greater diversity on the runway and more inclusive sizing in denim collections, there’s a growing shift back toward campaigns that idealize ultra-thin bodies and pale skin. Denim trends and marketing strategies are increasingly being influenced by a disruptive, and at times, disturbing, form of hyper-sexualization, Wröbel observed.
Low-rise styles—particularly the provocative, butt-baring designs from Diesel, Dsquared2 and Duran Lantink—are redefining the standard for how much flesh is revealed.
Designers and consumers are also pushing back on the old money aesthetic with “overwhelming loud” luxury, Wröbel said. The theme combines references from high fashion and streetwear—like traditional blazers, fur and preppy knits with stacked belts, prominent logo placement, baggy fits and expressive jacquard denim.
Workwear and heritage designs are not exempt for AI. Wröbel describes how the contradictory worlds come together to form a soft steampunk aesthetic. Rugged fabric textures, retro fits and upcycled constructions are key.
Designers are also utilizing unwashed denim in fresh new ways. Dry, crisp, raw denim is being reimagined with wider tops, sharp layering and fitted denim. Wröbel said this new take on raw steps away from the oversized streetwear silhouettes the fabric is typically associated with, especially when its paired with “nerdy” button-down shirts, sweater vests and neckties. Pay special attention to raw denim jackets with shorter lengths, he added.
Though difficult, Wröbel urged designers to resist trends that don’t suit their brand’s DNA. “Being who you are is more important than running after disposable micro trends,” he said, adding that many brands find success by “doing their own thing.”
