“Urban, funky, jungle chic,” said Peter Dundas, who for spring combined dressy pieces with sporty fare, such as cropped hoodies bearing the brand’s black panther logo, or T-shirts.
The mood was full-on Eighties, from the Debbie Harry-inspired fringed biker jackets with zebra lapels to the bold-shouldered minidresses in a mix of animal prints, including a sequin camo mixed with black lace in a panther motif. Not forgetting a whole lotta gold.
The main silhouette was short, sexy and embellished with a couture feel that at times veered into outre territory. The faulty footwear — punky, strappy animal-print sandals inspired by a photo Dundas saw of Siouxsie Sioux — was distracting, with some of the models hobbling along the runway. (Granted, the label is still very young, with limited budgets, but bare feet would have worked better.)
Dévoré velvet, jacquard treatments and flocking were used to create the effect of a second layer on some of the dresses. “Like with the panther: when you look closer, it has spots,” Dundas explained.
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There were some fun ideas, like the asymmetric, hot-hued satin dresses accessorized with black lace shorts and cropped asymmetric tops. A minidress in a blend of pink fringe and silver embroidery was also cute.
Sex sells, and this collection is sure to resonate with the loyal band of jet-setters Dundas has gathered across his creative journey, having held artistic director roles at Ungaro then Emilio Pucci and Cavalli before going it alone. But the charismatic designer would be wise to shake off some of the design signatures associated with some of those houses as he makes his way through the jungle.
Meanwhile, Dundas took his stage bow in the first pieces of a men’s collection he hopes to launch in time for the holiday season.
Other projects include a temporary flagship on New York’s Mercer Street due to open in late August, and a pop-up on the Greek island of Mykonos — likely with a flock of his jet-setting followers in tow.