Albert Kriemler celebrated the work of avant-garde Romanian artist Geta Brătescu, known for the joyful quality of her work and quiet humor. The artist passed away on Sept. 19 at age 92.
Best was a series of pleated dresses, including a scarf dress with long flowing points at the side, in a print based on the 1974 photo montage “Magnets in the City,” echoed by giant magnet sculptures on the runway. (Metal horseshoe-shaped closures also featured on some of the looks.)
“Magnets for her stood for human relations, positive and negative attraction,” the designer said backstage.
More Pop Art in feel were the sporty pieces like a bright yellow cape with eye and lip motifs based on a 2011 collage portrait and a purple-ish trench sporting a motif based on her 2011 work “The Predatory Fish,” with the designer maintaining his focus on luxurious daywear.
A composition of Brătescu’s signature lines and geometric shapes were reinterpreted in a silhouette layering an asymmetric sleeveless black top over a bright pink top and a pale pink pant. Moving closer to home, was a series of full skirts and little jackets made of swirling guipure lace produced in St. Gallen, Switzerland.
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It made for a visually impactful if a little disparate collection. The designer’s modernist leanings came through strongest on the simpler looks like a night sport ensemble pairing a black velvet T-shirt with elasticated pant with an opening on side, or the super-elegant chiffon bustier gown, which were graphic and easier to read.