Breaking down the artificial boundaries humans have erected in the world over the centuries is Ulla Johnson’s ultimate dream. With her spring runway show, held at the Brooklyn event space Weylin, formerly the Williamsburg Savings Bank, the New York-based designer wanted to create a patchwork of cultural references, which perfectly coexisted in her pretty lineup. While pagan gospel singer Serpentwithfeet performed live, models were walking around with straw totems crafted by Filipino artisans using the waste from the production of the brand’s bags.
Craftsmanship was at the core of the pretty collection, which was infused with a certain Victorian vibe that resonated in the silhouettes. Johnson relied on Maasai women in Nairobi, Kenya, to bead the lovely pinafore dresses, wrapped tops and skirts; collaborated with Peruvian artisans for the beautiful graphic crochet frocks embellished with bold ruffles, while the embroidered and beaded floral patterns were handmade in India.
The flattering silhouettes included a covetable frock with a crisscrossed bodice that was crafted from raffia strips. A range of the brand’s signature flowy maxidresses combined a number of different prints into a charming patchwork. Cotton eyelet added a sweet note, while quilted vests and corsets enhanced the artisanal spirit of the lineup.
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Playing with so many elements can be tricky and overwhelming, but the designer succeeded in creating a pleasant balance among the different influences, all contributing to the feminine eclecticism of this charming collection.