Shanel Campbell is new to New York Fashion Week. The Parsons graduate, who has already dressed celebrities such as Solange Knowles and Issa Rae, presented her debut collection at a Lower East Side venue with a vibe that was, fittingly for her, more casual house party than highly orchestrated fashion week event.
But the overall look of the lineup, which was presented on 18 black women whom Campbell cast herself from Instagram, felt regal and meticulous. The hair, by Susy Oludele, was a focal point and ranged from cornrows, braids and locs to bantu knots, afro puffs and kinky twists. The designer worked within a tight palette of red and black and instead focused on texture and silhouette. A bra top, which was paired with a high-waisted, floor-length skirt, was embroidered with a braided lock of hair, and a quilted top was embellished with hanging, beaded braids.
Weaving, lacing and corsetry were recurring components of the show. One standout was a burgundy hooded dress with red, corset-like lacing. Irregular quilting showed up on a long-sleeve top that was decorated with light blue fringe, and on the bodice of a modern ballgown that also featured hanging keys. There were also some special items for everyday, including pants with silk cargo pockets and a red denim jacket with a matching pleated skirt.