Pablo Coppola worked a rainbow of warm Caribbean brights into this collection full of tailored clothing with practical flourishes, and a whiff of the revolution. The design director paid particular attention to textiles. He worked knitted mesh fabrics — inspired by stretchy, perforated fruit packaging — into A-line dresses, and sofa fabrics from Kvadrat, the high-end home interiors company, into sleeveless ones in a rich orange shade. There were T-shirts made from apple-red hair calf; chain mail-style tunics done in leather, and jackets made of crinkly foil — the kind used by emergency rescue squads — bonded with soft dark leather.
Coppola had a grand old time with his research, and admitted that some of the pieces — such as those robust Kvadrat dresses — would be made in lighter, more user-friendly fabrics for commercial purposes.
Other highlights of this upbeat collection included sunflower yellow pajama suits with Mao-style jackets and a host of lightweight leather car coats — including a burgundy one with a contrasting cream s-shaped closure with popper fastenings. Coppola is certainly full of ideas, and he also has the smarts to translate them into a commercial offer.