“Glamour.” The only clue to Jason Wu’s point of view from the season was a single word on his program notes. He didn’t mince words on a run of show either, so fabric details, etc., were in the eye of the beholder.
To that end, one observed a collection in the chicly wearable vein that Wu’s tapped into in the last few seasons, after his sexy minimalist phase thankfully passed. These were clothes for polished, self-possessed women, and yes, they were glamorous.
File the lineup under modern sportswear, beginning with the teal, textural trench with a clean cape effect around the shoulders that was trimmed in subtle fringe. Wu used variations on that effect — folds of fabric to create softly structured ruffles around the necklines and shoulders of cocktail and day dresses were key details in the collection — giving the looks air and romance. The palette was rich, slightly autumnal in its use of teal and rust, yet fabrics and cuts were clean and light. There were neatly cropped ribbed sweaters, flirty ruffled skirts and lingerie-esque slipdresses. Sturdier fair included a spiffy zip-up leather jacket and matching skirt.
Chic, practical, glamorous — all appropriate and positive descriptors for the collection, but it also felt a little cold. Stocked with items that will no doubt get a lot of mileage in a wardrobe, the clothes were plenty appealing but lacked for emotion, which is key to desire.