Emilia Wickstead experimented with voluminous shapes for spring, inspired by “The Women,” the 1939 film directed by George Cukor starring Norma Shearer, Jane Crawford and Rosalind Russell.
Working in a delicate palette of baby pink and vanilla cut through with mustard yellow and violet, she adapted the shapes that the film’s characters wore, notably the high-waisted puffy shorts, which Wickstead interpreted into a playsuit in a rose jacquard that seemed almost Elizabethan in its proportions.
There was a rose-print gown with a Watteau train and a geometric-print full-skirted dress that turned into a cape at back. The volume was most successful when confined to sleeves, as in a beautiful peach dress in a spongy fabric that had crystal-embellished eyes at the hem – a motif borrowed from a look worn by Russell in the film.