“The beauty of unfinished things,” is how Veronique Branquinho described the superbly executed theme of her spring collection, which she designed with her idol, singer-songwriter Kate Bush, in mind.
The designer conjured long, languid skirts, which were only half-pleated or abruptly changed their composition, alternating shimmering gold shades with matte maroon. The pleats continued on what were essentially white tank tops, but given their origamilike construction — embellished on the front and some with ruffled pieces decorating the models’ arms just below the shoulder — they looked anything but athletic.
The silhouettes telegraphed tenderness and calm, and above all femininity, which was true despite the fact that Branquinho opted for thick cords and carabiners as belts to the dreamy bottoms. And while Bush crooned “This Woman’s Work” — also the soundtrack at Céline earlier this week — onlookers struggled to catch all the fine details in the clothing’s soft layers, some transparent, some opaque.