Earthiness, as it’s defined in fashion terms, is a word at odds with Narciso Rodriguez’s aesthetic of resolute precision and minimalist modernity. Yet Rodriguez fused those disparate points of view, producing a wonder of a spring collection. “It’s a collage of so many things,” said Rodriguez backstage. “There was water on the mood board, and light, and great spheres hovering over water and minerals.”
The strong lines and structure for which he’s known went liquid on exquisite tank dresses. Cut like a swimsuit at the top, with a sporty plunge of a neckline and harness back, they glided over the body. There were tank tops with similar swimwear cuts and fluid scuba jackets done in black-and-white. Graphic, as always, the collection featured ample black-and-white and color-blocked paneling. It was strong and sexy, but with a softness, as Rodriguez worked in blush, pink, purple, deep green and blue. He hinted at the organic with color and accessories, such as chunky crystal and steel necklaces, then escalated the earthiness with masterful restraint, tracing dresses — some sporty, some dreamy, some womanly and sophisticated — in curving rings of green, bronze, pink, black and silver beaded embroideries. The majesty of nature captured by Rodriguez’s graceful hands.