Stéphane Rolland had his heart set on showing at Paris’ Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione circus venue this season. Half the tickets to the display — counting 600 — were sold to the public, with proceeds going to the Fondation des Hôpitaux to help teenagers at risk for the third season. Brigitte Macron, the first lady of France and the foundation’s president, was in attendance, as were Heart Evangelista, Andra Day and Lisa Rinna.
“The theme arrived very naturally,” he said. That was: Pablo Picasso and the ballet “Parade.”
How Rolland sculpts dresses reminds himself of some paintings Picasso made, especially in the Cubist style. There was theatrical drama and a high-glam quotient for spring, as the designer revisited a clown theme with large-volume garments, such as ballon pants, jumpsuits and coats mixing circle and square elements.
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“Because it’s the circus, it is everything about circular shapes,” Rolland said. Those were fashioned with rich fabrics, such as organza, chiffon and satin, sometimes embroidered with precious and semiprecious stones.
Along with black and white, he used cooked and burnt tones, such as red, burgundy and caramel.
An asymmetric long coat in white gazar came paired with a jumpsuit in the same fabric embroidered with jonquil diamonds. A long cape-dress of black duchess satin, velvet and georgette crepe was adorned with a plexiglass cube brooch with diamonds.
Before the finale, Natalia Bouglione floated through the air, performing to a wowed crowd.
The show aside, Rolland has been busy. Last month, he moved to new headquarters, which had been the headquarters of armorer Gastinne-Renette during the time of Napoleon III, just off of Paris’ Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Rolland also launched his first fragrance, with niche perfumer Henry Jacques, in July. That sold out and is being reproduced.