After his ode last season to his celebrity muses, Alexis Mabille was back to celebrating individual beauty — only this time, on a cast of models of different ages.
Carmen Kass, Audrey Marnay, Irina Lazareanu and Estelle Lefébure joined a gaggle of lesser-known faces in a celebration of old-style glamour rooted in classic styles. Outfits came in a muted palette of black, white, navy and nude designed to keep the focus on the wearer.
“It’s a hymn to beauty. That’s why I called the collection ‘Timeless Beauties’ in my show notes,” Mabille said backstage. “The idea is that the beauty is there — you don’t necessarily have to create it. You provide a foil for it, but when it’s there, it’s evident.”
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Monochrome looks inspired by the golden age of Hollywood seemed tailor-made for the silver screen — a pithy, black hourglass bustier dress, a pleated white goddess gown or a belted tuxedo jacket trimmed with ostrich feathers, worn as a dress.
There were frothier options, too, including two sheer outfits that left nothing to the imagination — a column dress made of black Chantilly lace, and an oversize white shirt dress with a tumbling collar trimmed in frayed pleats.
Mabille made sure to sprinkle in some of his signature bows, but the designer appears to be edging toward a more sober aesthetic since celebrating his brand’s 10th anniversary last year. It’s a wise move. Stripped of excessive embellishment, his creations reveal a consummate tailor at work.