Alphonse Maitrepierre’s latest collection was a direct, officially authorized interpretation of Paul Poiret’s legacy, as presented within the framework of the latest exhibition about the couturier at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
A dialogue between past and future, the designer gave some of the signature Poiret silhouettes a high-tech spin, constructing volume with democratic materials and laser-cut stripes from deadstock fabric from Nona Source as strings of beads. There were also H-shaped dresses with fake plunging necklines and origami-inspired trousers, a standout of the collection.
Around 60 percent of the range is made-to-order. Maitrepierre said China is the biggest market for that. The more accessible ready-to-wear portion featured short-sleeved hoodies, denim harem pants, T-shirts with cat motifs and jeans with a distressed logo at the center.
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The designer said the conversation about the collaboration started a year ago, and he was particularly drawn to Poiret’s designs from the Roaring 1920s: the glitter, the intellect and the oriental influences.
“What I love about Poiret is that he was the first designer to create volume on the body. Instead of straining women with corsets, he extended the body with fluidity, which for me right now is very contemporary,” he added.
The collection also featured a 3D-printed eyewear collaboration with Visages, and adorable mousey flats.