Bach Mai flew under the radar last season, hosting a private client dinner where he unveiled a small line of reedition cocktail attire. No big show. No big gowns. No reviews.
During a spring preview at his temporary studio in Berkeley College (Mai is this year’s designer-in-residence), the demi-couturier revealed he’ll be putting out one full collection a year going forward. “We don’t have the manpower or the resources to be pumping them out and getting them where we want them to be,” he explained.
Acknowledging past issues with construction and taste, he added: “I have a tendency to do too much, to add too much.” But as a CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund nominee, he’s opened himself back up to the scrutiny that comes with the runway. So rather than rush, he’s reduced his output.
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The idea of reduction led Mai to think in terms of basic geometry with circles and squares becoming polka-dot mikado and glen-plaid wool. The latter was used in the opening gray robe coat, which bled seamlessly into fluttering chiffon. Worn over a creamy Áo dài-style nightie, it embodied the “glamour in coming undone” that Mai was searching for.
From there the math got complicated and didn’t always add up. Satin Sophie shorts with out-flipped waistbands felt too undone and an errant swatch of lilac fabric tacked onto a corset didn’t make it more effortless to wear.
The polka dots burst forth during the finale in celadon sequins and crinoline-exposing portholes. They were also printed on a bustle-back gown masked by another one of those coats. Apart from the styling being off this time, it hid the fact that the dress underneath was actually well executed, though it too closely resembled a vintage one by Balenciaga pinned to Mai’s inspiration board.
His desire to recreate such grandiose couture moments in the vein of Charles James and former mentee John Galliano seemed antithetical to the goal of restraint. Hewing closer to it, a blouson sweater in citron-colored gossamer — Mai’s first knit — and a pair of bell-curve nylon shirtdresses better translated midcentury shapes to sportswear.
These showed directions Maison Mai could go off of the red carpet, but he freely admitted this collection is starting a new journey. “It’s the beginning of trying to find my voice again.”